May 30th-July 9th

The After
Higher end bikes rarely come with kickstands, like higher end hotels rarely serve free breaskfast (ha), so Sal's paint has gotten scuffed in days past from leaning him against various things-especially tree bark. Spray paint to the rescue!

The After
Sal is living on the edge, preparing to fly without any cushioning this time around. To be considered standard checked luggage, he must fall under 50 lbs. Aaand he clocks in at exactly 49.8 lbs!! Mwhahaha

Michigan: July 9th
I get to stay in a treehouse tonight! One of the absolute coolest places I've ever slept! My inner 12-year-old is grinning like a fool. WOOOO!

Michigan: July 9th
"How bad could the damage be," I shake my head, stubbornly pushing past the "Road Closed" signs to investigate for myself. Oh . . . shoot. Well, maybe if we had a ramp . . . and timed our jump just right . . . we'd still die. Dangit.

Michigan: July 9th
My ride's not over just yet! I must pedal another 50 miles to a Warmshowers host on the outskirts of Detroit before catching my flight tomorrow.

Michigan: July 9th
This life was a blessing and a privilege. I'm thankful I found the courage, however long it took, and it took so, so long, to finally leave my bedroom, and know it.

Michigan: July 8th
I pull into my campsite for the night, elated over being done, but the feeling is brief, fleeting. Mirred with the deep-rooted sense that a light is being snuffed from my life. I look behind me, and I see my little brown moth has died.

Michigan: July 8th
A little brown moth lands on my panniers. My heart is warmed by the sight of it. I expect it to fly off once we get moving, but instead it stays.

Michigan: July 7th
Otter Lake's campground charges $25 for primitive camping. I decide this a travesty, wholly against my made-up hobo code and escape into the woods š¤”

Michigan: July 7th
I long for nothing more after a day's ride than a bottle of chocolate milk. ššš

Michigan: July 5th
I spend the night at Evart Fairgrounds with a touring couple in their mid 50's, the same cyclists I travelled through Ludington with. We've been leapfrogging each other all day. Sal has never spent a night beside his own kind before, he's feeling a bit shy.

Michigan: July 5th
I feel like I'm not being challenged enough, that things are becoming TOO easy, and then what does this trip become? A glorified vacation? It's a strange thing to grapple with. I'm disheartened. (2/2)

Michigan: July 5th
I don't have a lot to say about the great lake states because, the truth is, they're all beginning to blurring together in my head. An even harsher reality to swallow is that I'm beginning to get ... bored. (1/2)

Michigan: July 4th
In Ludington, I abandon my most faithful friend-the sidewalk-and brave the busy road right as two other cyclists shoot by me. Travelling in a makeshift pack-even if I'm the third wheel they never asked for-is a confidence booster.

Wisconsin: July 4th
The S.S. Badger is the last coal-burning passenger steamboat in the U.S. A one way trip aboard takes 4 hours.

Wisconsin: July 4th
There's nothing like fearing you're going to miss your ferry for hours on end only to show up 30 mins early . . . and still worry you're going to miss it.

Wisconsin: July 4th
Some touring purists think taking the S.S. Badger across Lake Michigan is cheating. I say (with all the air of a cheeky bastard) that when it's your third time crossing the country, these sort of things matter far less. ;-P

Wisconsin: July 3rd
A Warmshowers host in Green Bay, WI, allows me to camp in his yard despite not being home!

Wisconsin: July 3rd
The Mountain Bay Trail requires a $5 fee to ride, with cyclists needing to display a tag on their bike(s) as proof of purchase.

Wisconsin: July 3rd
Downtown Wausau forbids cyclists from riding on the road, it's wild. Especially since bikes are considered vehicles. In 99% of U.S. towns, the exact opposite is true-riding on the sidewalk is what's strictly prohibited.

Wisconsin: June 30th
Thanks to the states dairy industry, the majority of roads through the rolling countryside here are paved.

Minnesota: June 29th
Donn has a silo outside filled with pictures of guests heās had over the years!

Minnesota: June 29th
This toad snuck into the bunkhouse. I kicked it out. (Not to be a jerk but because I figured it was lost.) It snuck back in. I kicked it out again. ITS BACK. It gets to stay now.

Minnesota: June 28th
I suddenly feel horrible to take a rest day and relentlessly pace the bunkhouse, practically bouncing off the walls in jittery-anxiety, stewing in the finality of my decision. God, I don't know what's wrong with me. (2/2)

Minnesota: June 28th
I felt hellish this morning, like a one-eyed, rabid sewer rat, with NO motivation to get out of bed, let alone cover 100 miles. So I lapsed back to sleep, and when I next arose, everything had changed. (1/2)

Minnesota: June 28th
Donn charges money for some items in the fridge, just to recoup the purchase prices. Bread, milk, eggs, butter, cheese, peanut butter, and jam are always free!

Minnesota: June 28th
This is one of the most amazing places Iāve ever staid. There are four bedrooms with two cots each, a fully furnished living room and kitchen, as well as an upstairs loft that could easily fit 30+ people in a pinch. And itās open 24/7, people can roll in anytime.

Minnesota: June 28th
I make it to Donnās Bicycle Bunkhouse in Dalbo, MN!!! š An old barn converted to a free hostel solely for traveling cyclists on the Northern Tier.

Minnesota: June 28th
by a few inches then sped away. I couldnāt get a picture of the culprit fast enough; here he is as a dot in the distance. Luckily, had I been injured or killed, there was a kind gentleman in a tractor who witnessed the whole thing and came to check on me (2/2)

Minnesota: June 28th
Holy shit, I just got hit by a car. They only nicked my left pannier, I didnāt even feel a jolt let alone get thrown from my bike. It was like being brushed by a feather except in this case the feather was a blue pickup with monster truck tires going 70 mph that missed killing me (1/2)

Minnesota: June 27th
Dennis & Brooke take me in despite already having another guest over for the night! I can't believe how quickly my luck has changed. Thanks for saving my frazzled arse!

Minnesota: June 27th
In a state of total disarray and desperation, huddled against a CVS to avoid a flash thunderstorm, I reached out to a Warmshowers host in St. Joseph, and they turn my whole world around. (2/3)

Minnesota: June 27th
Tired of this happening. š The sidewall of my front tire is damaged, I canāt get it properly seated even though Schwalbeās are meant to last thousands of miles. I hate feeling stranded. (1/3)

Minnesota: June 25th
ALL HAIL THE GIANT 13 FOOT TALL BOOMING PRAIRIE CHICKEN. Instead of gods they worship this bird in Rothsay, MN.

Minnesota: June 25th
To hear so much about the North County National Scenic Trail online and then to see a sign for it in person. Star struck!

Minnesota: June 25th
No welcome sign into Minnesota, but that's a fair price to pay for backroad riding!

North Dakota: June 25th
10 days. 3 centuries. 767 miles. This cycling thing sure is faster than walking.

North Dakota: June 24th
I fully intended to stop at Enderlin today, but once I covered those 75 miles by 3:30 p.m., I knew I had more in me. My third century!!

North Dakota: June 24th
I've never seen a town advertise their bike friendliness on their website. WOW! Heartwarming to see!

North Dakota: June 23rd
The hostel is run by the son of the founder of Honey Stinger, an energy gel brand

North Dakota: June 23rd
There are already 3 other cyclists at the hostel. Mark, travelling solo from WA to PA, and Bud and Doc, brother in laws on the Northern Tier. Come to think of it, this may be the only time in my life I sleep alone in a bedroom with three 70 year old men. Maybe.

North Dakota: June 23rd
Cycopath: a person suffering from chronic bike riding disorder with abnormal urges to ride and feel free

North Dakota: June 23rd
The Honey Hub has a list of resources within a 130 mile radius, east and west!

North Dakota: June 23rd
I hightailed it 80 miles to reach the Honey Hub, right in the nick of time! Sandy backroads and interstate slog couldn't stop me!

North Dakota: June 23rd
There are prominent signs in downtown Gackle, ND for the FREE, local bicycle hostel, open 24-7!

North Dakota: June 22nd
Another 100 mile day!! I crash at MacKenzie Slough State Game Management Area.

North Dakota: June 22nd
Three cop cars speed by in rapid succession as smoke billows in the distance, in the direction I'm headed. House fire? This is the only photo I've taken from my bike's phone holder. Really feels like Sal's POV.

North Dakota: June 22nd
I post this entirely for my future self, because good food is never bad to look at twice. š For a grocery store take out dish, this blew my expectations! (Not pictured: a giant cow sculpture in the distance)

North Dakota: June 22nd
I wake up to a bag of goodies on the kitchen counter, left for me by Joel & his family, hosts extraordinaire. š This includes some leftover dinner buns, wrapped in beet leaves. A Ukranian recipe!

North Dakota: June 21st
Assumption Abbey in Richardton, ND, takes in cyclists. Was tempting to mark a monastery off my list of places stayed, but after some digging I found out the lead monk has been credibly accused of sexual abuse.

North Dakota: June 21st
Now, the game has changed. The winds are in my favor the majority of the time. I can cover a rockin' 10 miles per hour!! (2/2)

North Dakota: June 21st
When I started this tour, I cycled at 6 miles per hour. S I X! That is the sort of pace you would expect from a crippled snail, and it prompted every bicycle tourist I met along the way to look at me with a mix of confusion and pity when I would tell them, haha (1/2)

North Dakota: June 21st
I spent $5 on this salad and then immediately dropped it all over the ground OH MY GOD WHAT HAVE I DONE I HAVE MADE MOIST, RANCHY FLOOR CONFETTI

North Dakota: June 20th
Scoria Pit, a dispersed campsite in the national grasslands outside Medora. A motocyclist beats me to the spot by 5 mins! Then a couple from Ukraine roll in a few hours later. Suppose this spots not so secret after all. We have a bonfire together!

Montana: June 18th
I have developed a downright embarrassing addiction to chocolate milk. It's getting out of control. I can't go more than 1-2 days without a bottle.

Montana: June 18th
I stop by the Circle police station to notify them of my intent to camp at the city park (which has working outlets-wooooo!), per their request for cyclists. You can ultimately camp for free at the parks in Stanford, Lewistown, Winnet, Jordan, AND Circle!

Montana: June 17th
These signs cover the highway. Local ranchers are concerned about the American Praire Reserve encroaching on their property. The APR aims to preserve native species in a 3.2 million acre, privately-held wildlife sanctuary, and they're slowly gaining ground.

Montana: June 17th
The long-billed curlew! I saw this amazing bird in person but couldn't capture it with my own lens. It's like a cross between an ibis and a pheasant!

Montana: June 17th
The most glamorious, backcountry rest stop I've ever been to! Usually they look like back alley crack houses, explosive diarrhea splattering the walls. This place looks like you could eat off the floor! (But you might not want to after my gross analogy.)

Montana: June 16th
I asked a couple in Winnett if they knew how I could get in touch with local officials for permission to camp, and they told me to go see the deputy sheriff at the bar, so I hunted him down and interrupted his dinner to ask and thankfully he said itās a-okay! Woooo!

Montana: June 16th
I hook up with the Northern Tier, an Adventure Cycling route. The merit to this is that small towns are used to having cyclists pass through and the question of where to overnight has often been solved already.

Montana: June 15th
Stanford, MT. I've never had the courage to call and ask about sleeping in a city park before, yet tonight I do, and I get a YES!

Montana: June 14th
I'm reasonably confident that their kindness is what helped propell me forward. (Well, that and the wind. But mostly them!! š ) | First time sleeping in a home gym āļø

Montana: June 14th
My Warmshowers hosts in Great Falls built their own straw bale house! Together, we play Five Crowns and explore our Enneagrams (best bible study ever). After leaving, I manage to crank out 175 miles in 2 days and I can't say for certain buuut (1/2)

Montana: June 13th
A glimpse into me analyzing public lands here. Things are . . . not looking good. I end up ducking down a dirt road and sleeping on the outskirts of a barbed wire fence, to a small field that is technically labeled public trust lands. in the eternal hunt

Montana: June 13th
A sudden, unexpected thunderstorm on the horizon. I almost get blown off the road by the wind force from a semi truck!

Montana: June 13th
A juvenile bull snake in my path hoping Iāll mistake it for something far more vicious. Spooked me for a second when I wasnāt sure of its identify.

Montana: June 13th
I thought the Rocky Mountains were behind me ... boy, was I wrong! These rolling hills are rougher than the mountain passes. And oh lord, the RVers!

Montana: June 13th
My third crossing of the Continental Divide! Going down Roger Pass is nerve-racking. There's little shoulder and multiple switchbacks. My tires somehow, inexplicably, SLIP twice. Last thing you want when you're going 25-30 mph! AAHHHHHHH-

Montana: June 12th
A month after I passed through Ovando, a grizzly bear would drag a touring cyclist from their tent and maul them to death in the center of town.

Montana: June 12th
I thought for sure I would stay in Ovando for the night, but it doesn't feel right to, suddenly. I've made remarkable timing today, 55 miles in only 5-6 hours! So I decide to push on to Moose Creek campground in Helena National Forest.

Montana: June 12st
In Ovando, I meet two teens cycling from Seattle to Oklahoma and a couple of grumpy old badgers racing on the Great Divide! Through the grapevine, I had heard of other bicycle tourists being in my vicinity before, but this is the first time paths have collided.

Montana: June 12th
Since Ovando runs along the Great Divide Route (like the Continental Divide Trial, but for cyclists) the town has taken to giving travelers a hearty welcome.

Montana: June 12th
Welcome to clearwater junction, glacier country. Once the highway stands still for a moment, listen to the whistle of the wind, take in the open landscape and remember the many who have come before in this very spot.

Montana: June 12th
The view on HWY. 200, part of the Adventure Cycling Associations Lewis & Clark route (which I'm on more by chance than on purpose)

Montana: June 12th
This sign slaps me in the face. Moments before, I had been wallowing about missing those 42 miles. Hell, I had pulled over to the side of the road and cried. Now . . . I stare up at this sign, and I recognize the truth:
too much pride is no good for the heart. It has deceived me.

Montana: June 12th
I had to skip those 42 miles into Missoula. The first miles Iāve missed this whole trip. It shouldn't matter, but it does. It wreckes my conscious all day, I feel absolutely terrible.

Montana: June 10th-11th
I stay with Ethel in Missoula, a badass 83 year old woman who has hosted 200+ cyclists passing through town and has covered 10,000+ miles herself. She is incredible! Her next tour, from Anchorage to Fairbanks, starts in July. Lola the "dorkie" often accompanies her.

Montana: June 10th
I got a free ice cream bar from the ACA headquarters. Plus a bandana and a 6 month trial to their magazine too. Woooooo!

Montana: June 10th
I have only come across two other touring cyclists on this trip, it's been a lonely road, so it is wildly fun and overwhelming to be in the heart of the ACA headquarters, surrounded by other touring cyclists for once. I especially loved seeing everyoneās rigs.

Montana: June 10th
Two blocks off, I hear someone call out behind me and I turn around to find an ACA employee racing up. He asks me if I'm on tour, if I need help. (2/2)

Montana: June 10th
The ACA has their headquarters in Missoula. I hesitate outside the entrance, looking totally forlorn in the pouring rain, realizing I won't be able to visit before closing, not if I want to have Sal fixed at a bike shop today. So I walk away. (1/2)

Montana: June 10th
After two hours, a lumberman with chainsaws in the back of his pickup (which would have made for a fun, interesting way to murder me, no doubt) offers me a ride into Missoula. I accept. (2/2)

Montana: June 10th
On the interstate, in the pouring rain, with the nearest services 42 miles away in Missoula, my tire goes flat again. I try applying my final patch in a last ditch effort to ride on and fail, miserably. So instead I sit on the side of the road sobbing intermittently, my clothes soaked through in the the 45 degree chill.

Montana: June 9th
To salt my wounds, I fork over $20 for a primitive campsite. It comes with no amenities, not even potable water. Since it's going to rain overnight I figure a park ranger isn't likely to bust me for not paying, but the risk doesn't feel worth it.

Montana: June 9th
The climb from St. Regis River back UP to the trail. Commence the billy goat scramble!

Montana: June 9th
I call this rocky mountain river tube repair. Had to climb down a steep slope to reach the water, but it was worth it to instantly find the problem hole. Sure beats using a state park toilet *cough* not that I would know . . .

Montana: June 8th
And with every rendition of this scene, my patches don't work. š I won't make it another 10 miles today. I won't make it anywhere if I can't help myself. Missoula, the nearest town with services, is 90 miles away. (2/2) | All these patches, and not a single one worked.

Montana: June 8th
I'm like the lead actress in a tragedy, playing on a loop, with the same ending every time. I get a flat tire. I replace it with my spare tube. Then, hours later, another flat hits me like a one-two punch. (1/2)

Montana: June 8th
Things have been falling apart since entering Montana. š One of my aluminum bottle holders has snapped. My back brake is malfunctioning more than usual. And somehow a freak encounter with a branch has wrecked my back fender.

Idaho: June 7th
"Build a man a fire, he is warm for a day. Light a man on fire, he is warm for the rest of his life."

Idaho: June 7th
This area is the most polluted silver mining region in the world; the trail was built with the Enviromental Protection Agency as part of the clean up measure.

Idaho: June 6th
Coeur D'Alene (core-duh-lane) You don't want to know how long it took me to finally nail the pronounciation of this city; I still haven't learned how to say Spokane, haha!

Washington: June 6th
Out of all the words to describe a transient, I like "hobo" most. I don't know, I find it endearing. "Tramp" just doesn't have the same ring to it.

Idaho: June 6th
WOWW!! This is one of the most beautiful murals I've ever seen! The color, the style, the subject -chefs kiss- Mesmerizing.

Idaho: June 6th
"So much to do today: kill memory, kill pain, turn heart into a stone, and yet, prepare to live again. Are you ready?"

Idaho: June 6th
I have only ~80 miles across the bottleneck of the state, mostly on the Cour dāAlene Trail and Northern Pacific Railway.

Washington: June 6th
"In 1858, Col George Wright ... captured 800 indian horses. To prevent the indians from waging further warfare, he killed the horses on the bank of the river directly north of this monument"

Washington: June 5th
This colossal, three story slide looks like something a room full of children eating cocaine-laced candies would concoct up, an idea that all the reasonable adults would then poo-poo. But instead ... it's real. It's HERE.

Washington: June 5th
A war on the homeless is waging in Spokane, with a plethora of "NO CAMPING - VIOLATORS SUBJECT TO ARREST" signs everywhere. Camping is outlawed on all public lands within city limits

Washington: June 5th
I've never been to a city with a waterfall running through the heart of it, incredible!

Washington: June 5th
Spokane! It reminds me of Flagstaff at a glance-an indie, outdoorsy city that hasn't been overrun. The 63 mile Centennial Trail spans the length of it.

Washington: June 5th
Columbia Plateau Trail. The gravel is abysmal here too. Who does this benefit? WHOOOOO? (The state's pocketbook? Ha)

Washington: June 4th
Cow Lake!! My foot falls through the unevenly spaced, so-not-up-to-code cattle guard here, OUCH!

Washington: June 4th
Navigation on Maps.Me, the GPS app I use. It works offline and shows my elevation gains/drops.

Washington: June 4th
It was hard to leave the Palouse to Cascades Trail. Needing to pivot in a matter of hours, from the route I had dreamt of for months? God, I was so scared I was making the wrong decision, but now I see there was no better one.

Washington: June 3rd
The farmland around the Columbia River basin is rich, with an extensive, sweeping canal system. It's remarkable to go from mountains to farmland to desert in 24 hours!

Washington: June 3rd
Midday shower on a 97+ degree day. No clue if there are pesticides in the water but if so, ideally, I will be discovering a new superpower I never knew I had soon. At least I think thatās how these things work ...

Washington: June 3rd
Over a bridge with no shoulder. Going uphill. For 1.3 miles. I am calling this, affectionately, "the suicide run." (2/2)

Washington: June 2nd
I cover 15 miles in 25 minutes to Vantage, WA, WOOOOO! | Turns out the Palouse to Cascades Trail east of the Columbia River is a disaster-loose sand, ballast rock. š And the only way to cross the river is on the interstate. (1/2)

Washington: June 2nd
I find SEVEN ticks on me tonight. Youād think I camped on their mother hive or something. This is the only time I wish I had a partner, to check my scalp for ticks.

Washington: June 2nd
My tent pole snaps. Just like last time, on my first night camping. The irony makes me want to voth laugh and cry. Except now it's worse, because I don't have an extra splint to hold things together, and I can't get one until Spokane. Duct tape to the rescue!

Washington: June 2nd
the unintended side effect of jumping in every puddle of water I come across, then not taking my moist socks/shoes off for 48 hours, haha

Washington: June 2nd
I have lost my balaclava and my wool cap. Both carried me so far and now they're just .... gone. š It's stupid to care, I know, but they were practical yet sentimental items, two characteristics that apply to few other things I carry. I will feel their loss for a while yet.

Washington: June 2nd
I had slipped and fell, Sal crashing on top of me, pinning me against a bush, and proceeded to yell "GET OFF ME" thinking no one was around to hear.
Anyway, thatās how I ended up sleeping under a bridge a few yards away instead. (4/4)

Washington: June 1st
sort of way. I say, and I quote, "Oh," with a little wave of reassurance before turning around and fleeing back the way I came. This encounter was particularly awkward since, just moments prior, (3/4)

Washington: June 1st
Along the bank of the Yakima River is a grove of trees, sheltered from prying eyes-perfect! I round a corner and BOOM! I come face-to-face with another man, stealth camping in my spot. We both startle, eyes wide in a oh-shoot-have-I-just-been-caught (2/4)

Washington: June 1st
It's all downhill from Hyak to Lake Easton. We FLYYYY! š¦Until I suffer another flat and, just like that, my hopes of reaching Roslyn are squashed. Argh. There are no free campsites along the trail so I go to forge my own. (1/4)

Washington: June 1st
You can always see a glimmer of light in the distance but for the longest time it doesnāt seem to get any bigger than a pinhole. (2/2) / There is snow beside the Snoqualmie Pass. In June! The tunnel itself is 30-50 degrees year round, even in the thick of summer.

Washington: June 1st
The Snoqualmie Tunnel is 2 MILES long, cut through a mountain and pitch black inside. Of course my brain is like āthink of the creepiest possible thingā while in the darkest part. (1/2)

Washington: June 1st
I'm forced to ride in a skinny, worn track made by the tires of previous cyclists to avoid the thick aggregate of the trail. Even then, each mile is a fight, and huge, fist-shaped rocks destroy any momentum I pick up.

Washington: June 1st
I've never been to the Pacific Northwest before. I'm awe-struck by the Cascades. And for all the trouble the trail gives me, the number of waterfalls and scenic mountain vistas alongside it is a wonder.

Washington: June 1st
The Palouse to Cascades Trail is rougher gravel than I ever would have imagined, it drives me bonkers. Instead of smooth, hard packed limestone it's large, loose chunks that even my 700 x 38 tires struggle to get traction on-virtually unrideable.

Washington: June 1st
A BLACK SLUG. What in the world?! Who knew such a thing existed. I want to ferret it away forever, or, at least, sit down and stare at it for 20 mins, but since neither are really practical I will have to settle for taking a photo

Washington: May 31st
My hosts in North Bend introduce me to sushi bowls! I am amazed. It's everything great about sushi ... in a bowl ... of epic proportons ... made so simply -mindblown-

Washington: May 31st
The shoulder of this highway is the Issaquah-Preston Trail for a stint. It is gorgeously wide.

Washington: May 31st
Seattle has an incredible network of trails, I get to follow them for the entirety of the day, until I meet up with the Palouse to Cascades Trail which spans 250 miles across the state of Washington.

Washington: May 30th
My aunt, Stef, gifts me chocolate milk, lets me spend 2 nights at her home in Lake Forest Park, and shuttles me around town. I bestow her my three most prized great horned owl feathers in thanks.

Washington: May 30th
Less than a mile from the beach, I round a corner to see flashing lights, ambluances. A cop blocking off the road with yellow "CAUTION-DO NOT CROSS" tape. This gives my aunt a momentary heart attack when she passes a few mins later. "Did Gin get run over that fast??"

Washington: May 30th
Shhhh, ignore those mountains in the background. The Salish Sea totally counts as going "ocean to ocean," or so I tell myself . . .

Washington: May 30th
My mom couldn't be at the start of this journey, so we had to settle for video chat!

The Before
Sal makes it off the plane in one piece (well, more like multiple pieces). This is a relief since he was hastily dissembled and shoved into a box with only 2 towels as cushioning. Bodies are chopped up and disposed of with more tact than this.