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Southern Tier (SC-CA) 🐌🌪️

March 9th-May 29th

Is this the end of my story? I stare out at the ocean, gripped with uncertainty, eyes searching for answers I'll never find in the sea. And I think. — California: May 29th
Is this the end of my story? I stare out at the ocean, gripped with uncertainty, eyes searching for answers I'll never find in the sea. And I think.

In the end? Not a single car honked at me today. Let alone yelled obscenities or threw bottles at me or any of the other horrors I envisioned, haha ... ha. My nerves unspool like spaghetti noodles as I flop onto my bunkbed at the Santa Monica hostel. 2 blocks left. — California: May 29th
In the end? Not a single car honked at me today. Let alone yelled obscenities or threw bottles at me or any of the other horrors I envisioned, haha ... ha. My nerves unspool like spaghetti noodles as I flop onto my bunkbed at the Santa Monica hostel. 2 blocks left.

A mile into walking, I go to inflate Sal's flat tire, in the hopes that it will make pushing him easier, provide some momentary relief, and ... the air holds. THE AIR HOLDS. COMPLETELY. And I didn't even DO anything. We roll on!! — California: May 29th
A mile into walking, I go to inflate Sal's flat tire, in the hopes that it will make pushing him easier, provide some momentary relief, and ... the air holds. THE AIR HOLDS. COMPLETELY. And I didn't even DO anything. We roll on!!

the thought of spending that makes me sick. I waste two hours trying to patch my tube, in a daze. I lie back and smile at the tree above me. People walk by. I cry. I fail. And, finally, I get up and I start walking. (2/2) — California: May 29th
the thought of spending that makes me sick. I waste two hours trying to patch my tube, in a daze. I lie back and smile at the tree above me. People walk by. I cry. I fail. And, finally, I get up and I start walking. (2/2)

NONONONONO. I have another flat in Beverely Hills-I can't believe it. I have no spares left, my patches won't work. I'm only 8 miles away from the ocean. There's not enough sunlight to make it to a store. An Uber would cost $100, round trip; (1/2) — California: May 29th
NONONONONO. I have another flat in Beverely Hills-I can't believe it. I have no spares left, my patches won't work. I'm only 8 miles away from the ocean. There's not enough sunlight to make it to a store. An Uber would cost $100, round trip; (1/2)

I've picked up a trick: since I'm usually in the front of the pack at stoplights, I peddle like hell through intersections, then pull over and wait for the line of traffic behind me to pass, before taking up the rear. It's not so bad once you get used to the (mental) screaming. — California: May 28th
I've picked up a trick: since I'm usually in the front of the pack at stoplights, I peddle like hell through intersections, then pull over and wait for the line of traffic behind me to pass, before taking up the rear. It's not so bad once you get used to the (mental) screaming.

me his brute-strength, before trudging off. Lastly, I feel a few drops of unidentified liquid hit my head and glance back to see a water bottle sailing through the air, followed by a young, homeless black man who looks at me with crazy-eyes. "Okay then." (2/2) — California: May 28th
me his brute-strength, before trudging off. Lastly, I feel a few drops of unidentified liquid hit my head and glance back to see a water bottle sailing through the air, followed by a young, homeless black man who looks at me with crazy-eyes. "Okay then." (2/2)

I get a flat tire in Hollywood. This leads to three wildly different interactions, in quick succession. FIrst, a middle-aged black man asks "you alright, hon?" in a honey-sweet voice, face furrowed in concern. Then a hispanic man silently walks up, lending (1/2) — California: May 28th
I get a flat tire in Hollywood. This leads to three wildly different interactions, in quick succession. FIrst, a middle-aged black man asks "you alright, hon?" in a honey-sweet voice, face furrowed in concern. Then a hispanic man silently walks up, lending (1/2)

I'm mortally terrified I'm going to die crossing LA, the most populated area in the U.S. Which is stupid, because I'm not ... but I might ... — California: May 28th
I'm mortally terrified I'm going to die crossing LA, the most populated area in the U.S. Which is stupid, because I'm not ... but I might ...

On the Pacific Electric Trail, a wood bee smahes into my eye, then a fly sucker-punches me in the back of the throat, forcing an emergency pull over to dry-heave. A fellow cyclist shows me his helmet brim, and a squirrely woman hands me yellow flowers. — California: May 27th
On the Pacific Electric Trail, a wood bee smahes into my eye, then a fly sucker-punches me in the back of the throat, forcing an emergency pull over to dry-heave. A fellow cyclist shows me his helmet brim, and a squirrely woman hands me yellow flowers.

California: May 26th

California: May 26th

Cajon Pass! On I-15. At rush hour. Because I sometimes make poor life choices ... and am a bad timer. 🙈 80 miles left! — California: May 26th
Cajon Pass! On I-15. At rush hour. Because I sometimes make poor life choices ... and am a bad timer. 🙈 80 miles left!

City of Victorville — California: May 25th
City of Victorville

I've pitched my tent for the last time, so having a solid roof over my head from here on out will make the risk of being murdered ✨in the night ✨ reduce to nearly zero. 🤪 Half the day accounted for, wooo!! — Arizona: May 25th
I've pitched my tent for the last time, so having a solid roof over my head from here on out will make the risk of being murdered ✨in the night ✨ reduce to nearly zero. 🤪 Half the day accounted for, wooo!!

uh oh — California: May 24th
uh oh

Somehow I pass through the desert during the perfect weather window!! It's in the 70's here when usually temperatures would be in the 90's to 100's. Hooray! — Arizona: May 23rd
Somehow I pass through the desert during the perfect weather window!! It's in the 70's here when usually temperatures would be in the 90's to 100's. Hooray!

76 miles conquered today. In Ludlow, the motel allows guests (like me) to get free, unlimited drinks from the convenience store across the street. I am AMAZED by this policy. — California: May 23rd
76 miles conquered today. In Ludlow, the motel allows guests (like me) to get free, unlimited drinks from the convenience store across the street. I am AMAZED by this policy.

Goffs to Amboy is my favorite stretch of Old RT. 66. — California: May 22nd
Goffs to Amboy is my favorite stretch of Old RT. 66.

Over half a dozen cave-ins like this are along this stretch of old RT. 66. No matter! They're easy to walk around with a bike. — California: May 23rd
Over half a dozen cave-ins like this are along this stretch of old RT. 66. No matter! They're easy to walk around with a bike.

There are increasingly severe "ROAD CLOSED" signs, sometimes less than 100 yards apart — California: May 23rd
There are increasingly severe "ROAD CLOSED" signs, sometimes less than 100 yards apart

Ignore the signs, everyone does — California: May 23rd
Ignore the signs, everyone does

Hi Sahara Oasis sells gallon jugs of water for $6 each. They're the only convenience store within 50 miles, so they know they can get away with highway robbery — California: May 23rd
Hi Sahara Oasis sells gallon jugs of water for $6 each. They're the only convenience store within 50 miles, so they know they can get away with highway robbery

I have to hide in the desert for 20 mins today to avoid potentially being attacked by a crazed motorist. And to think, I gave this state a second chance! — California: May 22nd
I have to hide in the desert for 20 mins today to avoid potentially being attacked by a crazed motorist. And to think, I gave this state a second chance!

Mohave National Reserve. — California: May 22nd
Mohave National Reserve.

Needles, CA. My final state, and one of my least favorites, though I try to enter with a sense of optimism, past grievances shed. — California: May 22nd
Needles, CA. My final state, and one of my least favorites, though I try to enter with a sense of optimism, past grievances shed.

Arizona: May 22nd

The view from atop Leanne's property — Arizona: May 21st
The view from atop Leanne's property

Leanne's quail! — Arizona: May 21st
Leanne's quail!

Oliver standing in front of Jackass Junction where my Warmshowers host, Leanne, works. Her son plays a lead role in the weekly gunfights. — Arizona: May 21st
Oliver standing in front of Jackass Junction where my Warmshowers host, Leanne, works. Her son plays a lead role in the weekly gunfights.

Oliver, the head honcho of the Oatman herd, and my favorite of the burros — Arizona: May 21st
Oliver, the head honcho of the Oatman herd, and my favorite of the burros

Oatman is an authentic old western town with burros roaming the streets and gunfights staged on weekend. Coolest place I've visited. — Arizona: May 21st
Oatman is an authentic old western town with burros roaming the streets and gunfights staged on weekend. Coolest place I've visited.

Going down Oatman HWY was the most thrilling ride of this trip, I wouldn't trade it for the world. My fingers began to ache from gripping the brakes for so long — Arizona: May 21st
Going down Oatman HWY was the most thrilling ride of this trip, I wouldn't trade it for the world. My fingers began to ache from gripping the brakes for so long

Sitegreaves Pass! — Arizona: May 21st
Sitegreaves Pass!

Going UP — Arizona: May 21st
Going UP

Arizona: May 21st

Arizona: May 21st

Made it to Cool Springs and met the resident dog, Dixie, who really wanted to eat my hands. Now the fun begins. — Arizona: May 21st
Made it to Cool Springs and met the resident dog, Dixie, who really wanted to eat my hands. Now the fun begins.

Cool Springs Station — Arizona: May 21st
Cool Springs Station

191 turns, 8 miles, no guard rails. There are old, abandoned vehicles in the ditches along the twisting road, left where they crashed over half a century ago — Arizona: May 21th
191 turns, 8 miles, no guard rails. There are old, abandoned vehicles in the ditches along the twisting road, left where they crashed over half a century ago

No tractor trailers are allowed on Oatman HWY because of its hairpin turns. A few attempt it anyway. Most don't make it. — Arizona: May 21st
No tractor trailers are allowed on Oatman HWY because of its hairpin turns. A few attempt it anyway. Most don't make it.

Rest Stop — Arizona: May 21st
Rest Stop

Arizona: May 21st

The route to Oatman — Arizona: May 21st
The route to Oatman

Winds are up to 42 mph coming into Kingman. 42 MPH.
I splurge on a half gallon of chocolate milk to help keep my spirits up but it can only do so much against these kind of headwinds. — Arizona: May 20th
Winds are up to 42 mph coming into Kingman. 42 MPH. I splurge on a half gallon of chocolate milk to help keep my spirits up but it can only do so much against these kind of headwinds.

Arizona: May 20th

it's a bearizona sticker!!!!!! — Arizona: May 20th
it's a bearizona sticker!!!!!!

A little closer . . . — Arizona: May 20th
A little closer . . .

Hackberry General Store | Wait, what's that?! Look close . . . — Arizona: May 20th
Hackberry General Store | Wait, what's that?! Look close . . .

I could literally see the cogs turning in his head as he debated whether to go for my leg or not. Thankfully, he decided to be merciful today. — Arizona: May 20th
I could literally see the cogs turning in his head as he debated whether to go for my leg or not. Thankfully, he decided to be merciful today.

Holy ----, I almost got bitten by a rattlesnake! Just now, I didn’t spot him on the road until it was too late and he rattled his tail and reared back to strike me and everything. (1/2) — Arizona: May 20th
Holy ----, I almost got bitten by a rattlesnake! Just now, I didn’t spot him on the road until it was too late and he rattled his tail and reared back to strike me and everything. (1/2)

Crozier Ranch-a mix of public and private lands with open entry. My shelter for the night. — Arizona: May 19th
Crozier Ranch-a mix of public and private lands with open entry. My shelter for the night.

I'm a sucker for gradients — Arizona: May 19th
I'm a sucker for gradients

The shoulder is remarkably wide here! — Arizona: May 19th
The shoulder is remarkably wide here!

Tonight's camp site under old RT 66, a few miles outside of Seligman. — Arizona: May 18th
Tonight's camp site under old RT 66, a few miles outside of Seligman.

The road behind me. You know what the most prolific problem is when riding on the interstate? Exit crossings. -shudders- Wait til the coast is clear then ... QUICK! RUN!! They're made so much worse by the fact that only 1/5 of cars signal their intent to turn — Arizona: May 18th
The road behind me. You know what the most prolific problem is when riding on the interstate? Exit crossings. -shudders- Wait til the coast is clear then ... QUICK! RUN!! They're made so much worse by the fact that only 1/5 of cars signal their intent to turn

More interstate travel. The first sign I've seen for Los Angeles yet. — Arizona: May 18th
More interstate travel. The first sign I've seen for Los Angeles yet.

Arizona: May 17th

Spike & I meet a brother and sister in their mid 20's who are travelling the U.S. When they mention visiting Carlsbad Caverns, I put them in touch with Karen in Roswell who they end up spending a night with! — Arizona: May 17th
Spike & I meet a brother and sister in their mid 20's who are travelling the U.S. When they mention visiting Carlsbad Caverns, I put them in touch with Karen in Roswell who they end up spending a night with!

A friendly rock squirrel! "Guests seeking treatment for squirrel bites is the number one reason park visitors end up at the Grand Canyon's health clinic" ha! — Arizona: May 17th
A friendly rock squirrel! "Guests seeking treatment for squirrel bites is the number one reason park visitors end up at the Grand Canyon's health clinic" ha!

Spike, my Warmshowers host, who has done over 10 rim to rim hikes! — Arizona: May 17th
Spike, my Warmshowers host, who has done over 10 rim to rim hikes!

Mule riders on the Bright Angel Trail — Arizona: May 17th
Mule riders on the Bright Angel Trail

A bighorn sheep lounging off the side of Bright Angel Trail! — Arizona: May 17th
A bighorn sheep lounging off the side of Bright Angel Trail!

Arizona: May 17th

Reaching the ocean is the ultimate goal. Yet, there is always another destination that has me enthralled, keeps me wanting, waiting to arrive, and for this journey, how could it be anywhere else? — Arizona: May 17th
Reaching the ocean is the ultimate goal. Yet, there is always another destination that has me enthralled, keeps me wanting, waiting to arrive, and for this journey, how could it be anywhere else?

The Grand Canyon!! — Arizona: May 17th
The Grand Canyon!!

Juvenille grizzlies, once more at Bearizona — Arizona: May 17th
Juvenille grizzlies, once more at Bearizona

Bearizona only houses animals native to North America, specifically the U.S. Jaguars occasionally venture into southern AZ! — Arizona: May 17th
Bearizona only houses animals native to North America, specifically the U.S. Jaguars occasionally venture into southern AZ!

White buffalo — Arizona: May 16th
White buffalo

My Warmshowers host is a volunteer at Bearizona so we get in for free! — Arizona: May 17th
My Warmshowers host is a volunteer at Bearizona so we get in for free!

the gateway to the grand canyon — Arizona: May 15th
the gateway to the grand canyon

An old stretch of RT. 66 to Williams — Arizona: May 15th
An old stretch of RT. 66 to Williams

Arizona: May 15th

My Warmshowers host in Flagstaff had another touring cyclist over. Adam, headed from TN to CA. I'm always amazed to see other people's setups, I just have to take a minute to admire them. So uniquely different from mine! — Arizona: May 15th
My Warmshowers host in Flagstaff had another touring cyclist over. Adam, headed from TN to CA. I'm always amazed to see other people's setups, I just have to take a minute to admire them. So uniquely different from mine!

My saddle is apparently happy to see me but I am not happy to see it. 😩 Turns out, he had a bolt loose. — Arizona: May 14th
My saddle is apparently happy to see me but I am not happy to see it. 😩 Turns out, he had a bolt loose.

My entire 57 mile ride into Flagstaff is on the interstate. :( Uphill. 2500+ft elevation gain. The shoulder is over 10 feet wide, but the traffic is relentless. Semi's pass every minute. Demoralizing day. — Arizona: May 14th
My entire 57 mile ride into Flagstaff is on the interstate. 🙁 Uphill. 2500+ft elevation gain. The shoulder is over 10 feet wide, but the traffic is relentless. Semi's pass every minute. Demoralizing day.

Guess who did 85 miles today?? Including 30 on the interstate. A new record for me! Called for my first shower in 9 days, since Roswell, NM, and my first motel room since Bowie, TX. — Arizona: May 13th
Guess who did 85 miles today?? Including 30 on the interstate. A new record for me! Called for my first shower in 9 days, since Roswell, NM, and my first motel room since Bowie, TX.

Holbrook, AZ | Made it to RT. 66, which is mostly Interstate 40 in Arizona. — Arizona: May 13th
Holbrook, AZ | Made it to RT. 66, which is mostly Interstate 40 in Arizona.

Arizona: May 13th

A petrified stump! — Arizona: May 13th
A petrified stump!

A golden eagle! Woah!! — Arizona: May 13th
A golden eagle! Woah!!

I wonder what the story is behind the "bicycles cross with caution" sign tacked underneath "cattle guard." — Arizona: May 12th
I wonder what the story is behind the "bicycles cross with caution" sign tacked underneath "cattle guard."

A sign for the Grand Canyon. Not an ever-illusive fairytale you hear about TV but a real place, here. Close! Wow! — Arizona: May 12th
A sign for the Grand Canyon. Not an ever-illusive fairytale you hear about TV but a real place, here. Close! Wow!

Spot the lizard! — Arizona: May 12th
Spot the lizard!

The sloping hills into Arizona are not to be trifled with! 1-2 miles down, 1-2 miles UPP — Arizona: May 11th
The sloping hills into Arizona are not to be trifled with! 1-2 miles down, 1-2 miles UPP

I've gained 3,000 ft in elevation since Tatum, NM! — Arizona: May 11th
I've gained 3,000 ft in elevation since Tatum, NM!

And it feels like . . . finally 😁 — Arizona: May 11th
And it feels like . . . finally 😁

That's what I call a shoulder! — New Mexico: May 11th
That's what I call a shoulder!

Pie Town!! 🥧 — New Mexico: May 10th
Pie Town!! 🥧

Been a rough week with a lot of uphill climbing, headwinds, and flat tires. Relentless glass on the shoulder of HWY 60, I've never seen a road so littered with beer bottles. Crawled under a barbed wire fence to reach public lands tonight. — New Mexico: May 10th
Been a rough week with a lot of uphill climbing, headwinds, and flat tires. Relentless glass on the shoulder of HWY 60, I've never seen a road so littered with beer bottles. Crawled under a barbed wire fence to reach public lands tonight.

Last time I crossed the Continental Divide was at Boreas Pass in Colorado. Good to be back. — New Mexico: May 10th
Last time I crossed the Continental Divide was at Boreas Pass in Colorado. Good to be back.

I’ve never seen live elk before, hoping that changes soon! — New Mexico: May 10th
I’ve never seen live elk before, hoping that changes soon!

New Mexico: May 9th

Datil Well campground — New Mexico: May 9th
Datil Well campground

"Beware! Wolves Nearby! Keep Kids & Pets Close!" — New Mexico: May 9th
"Beware! Wolves Nearby! Keep Kids & Pets Close!"

Pronghorn antelope! — New Mexico: May 9th
Pronghorn antelope!

Horned toad!! Look at that side-eye, probably debating whether to squirt blood at me or not. — New Mexico: May 9th
Horned toad!! Look at that side-eye, probably debating whether to squirt blood at me or not.

Next morning, I pass a rest stop a hundred yards from where I was camped out and see a human-shaped lump under a blanket, beside a rundown truck, and assume that must have been the culprit: crazy homeless guy. (2/2) — New Mexico: May 8th
Next morning, I pass a rest stop a hundred yards from where I was camped out and see a human-shaped lump under a blanket, beside a rundown truck, and assume that must have been the culprit: crazy homeless guy. (2/2)

I wake up at 11:30 pm in the remote desert, ten miles from the nearest town, to a man screaming at the top of his lungs. “GET THE F^%# UP!!” I hope I'm not the witness to a murder. (1/2) — New Mexico: May 8th
I wake up at 11:30 pm in the remote desert, ten miles from the nearest town, to a man screaming at the top of his lungs. “GET THE F^%# UP!!” I hope I'm not the witness to a murder. (1/2)

I was hoping to see a rattlesnake on this trip-score!!!! 🐍 Glad it was dead because I did NOT stop in time when I saw it and passed within a few inches — New Mexico: May 8th
I was hoping to see a rattlesnake on this trip-score!!!! 🐍 Glad it was dead because I did NOT stop in time when I saw it and passed within a few inches

140 miles on RT. 60. from Socorro to the Arizona state border! — New Mexico: May 9th
140 miles on RT. 60. from Socorro to the Arizona state border!

Two jackasses in a pickup truck blared their horn then pulled up beside me to say, "you need to ride on the shoulder." Only thing is ... there WAS no shoulder?? They just stared blankly at me before speeding off. — New Mexico: May 8th
Two jackasses in a pickup truck blared their horn then pulled up beside me to say, "you need to ride on the shoulder." Only thing is ... there WAS no shoulder?? They just stared blankly at me before speeding off.

Rest day at San Antonio Riverine Park spent in the company of two RVers. I found this peculiar tree. It calls to me, but I'm not sure if it's truly abandoned art, or someone's lost love, so I leave it be. — New Mexico: May 7th
Rest day at San Antonio Riverine Park spent in the company of two RVers. I found this peculiar tree. It calls to me, but I'm not sure if it's truly abandoned art, or someone's lost love, so I leave it be.

New Mexico: May 6th

Yellow grass, red hills, black cows. Wonderstruck. — New Mexico: May 6th
Yellow grass, red hills, black cows. Wonderstruck.

Thought I could primitive camp for free at Valley of Fire, ha. The lava rock and cacti tell me the harsh truth — New Mexico: May 5th
Thought I could primitive camp for free at Valley of Fire, ha. The lava rock and cacti tell me the harsh truth

I have no words left. Only laughs. And a new souvenir! — New Mexico: May 5th
I have no words left. Only laughs. And a new souvenir!

"US 380 ... subject to closure due to missle firing" — New Mexico: May 5th
"US 380 ... subject to closure due to missle firing"

My first mountain descent, down to Carizozo. Holy shi------- So, that's what it feels like to really ride — New Mexico: May 5th
My first mountain descent, down to Carizozo. Holy shi------- So, that's what it feels like to really ride

Smokey Bear was found in the Capitan Mountains! — New Mexico: May 5th
Smokey Bear was found in the Capitan Mountains!

New Mexico: May 4th

Fort Stanton Snowy River Cave National Conservation Area. Mountains inbound! — New Mexico: May 4th
Fort Stanton Snowy River Cave National Conservation Area. Mountains inbound!

I have never been on a highway forbidding tractor trailors before — New Mexico: May 4th
I have never been on a highway forbidding tractor trailors before

"you belong, cyclist" — New Mexico: May 4th
"you belong, cyclist"

Karen happened to have a friend visiting Albuquerque who could pick me up a new Schwalbe Marathon Plus for me at REI! :-) Next Warmshowers host is 500 miles away in Flagstaff — New Mexico: March 4th
Karen happened to have a friend visiting Albuquerque who could pick me up a new Schwalbe Marathon Plus for me at REI! 🙂 Next Warmshowers host is 500 miles away in Flagstaff

when a car pulls over. It's a middle aged couple who saw my flashing taillight and feared I had been hit. I leave my heart on the road and hitch a ride with them to Roswell. Karen welcomes me back with all the understanding & warmth in the world, and I love her dearly for it. (2/2) — New Mexico: May 3rd
when a car pulls over. It's a middle aged couple who saw my flashing taillight and feared I had been hit. I leave my heart on the road and hitch a ride with them to Roswell. Karen welcomes me back with all the understanding & warmth in the world, and I love her dearly for it. (2/2)

AHHH!! My front tire EXPLODED as I was going downhill. Now its completely warped, protruding from the rim when I blow it up. Right at sunset when I have nowhere to go. I sit on the side of the road in the dark, trying to jury-rig things back together, (1/2) — New Mexico: May 2nd
AHHH!! My front tire EXPLODED as I was going downhill. Now its completely warped, protruding from the rim when I blow it up. Right at sunset when I have nowhere to go. I sit on the side of the road in the dark, trying to jury-rig things back together, (1/2)

Old vs new brake pads — New Mexico: May 1st
Old vs new brake pads

back to Karen's house, heart heavy, head hung low. I feel like a bird lifting off, flying free! only to hit the end of a chain, to realize all I can do, at least for today, is stretch my wings. Karen is kind enough to drive me to Walmart for new spare tubes, chain lube, and brake pads. (2/2) — New Mexico: May 1st
back to Karen's house, heart heavy, head hung low. I feel like a bird lifting off, flying free! only to hit the end of a chain, to realize all I can do, at least for today, is stretch my wings. Karen is kind enough to drive me to Walmart for new spare tubes, chain lube, and brake pads. (2/2)

I get another flat tire less than a mile from Karen's house. My patch repair kit isn't working and I have no spares left to replace it with. Hell, that tube WAS my spare as of four days ago. A cop chides me for sitting along the highway, so I reluctantly retreat (1/2) — New Mexico: May 1st
I get another flat tire less than a mile from Karen's house. My patch repair kit isn't working and I have no spares left to replace it with. Hell, that tube WAS my spare as of four days ago. A cop chides me for sitting along the highway, so I reluctantly retreat (1/2)

Pollo Verde from Martin's Capitol Cafe | Lunch with Karen. I have very vivid memories of being fordfed chilli as a kid, so I was shocked to like the green chile, one of NM's staple dishes, here — New Mexico: April 30th
Pollo Verde from Martin's Capitol Cafe | Lunch with Karen. I have very vivid memories of being fordfed chilli as a kid, so I was shocked to like the green chile, one of NM's staple dishes, here

"Here There Be Dragons" Karen's front door — New Mexico: April 30th
"Here There Be Dragons" Karen's front door

Two homemade roosts — New Mexico: April 30th
Two homemade roosts

Salem the cat trying to distract me as I clean Karen's chicken coop. — New Mexico: April 30th
Salem the cat trying to distract me as I clean Karen's chicken coop.

Salem, perhaps a lost love of mine from a past life, or perhaps just a really, really charming tomcat — New Mexico: April 30th
Salem, perhaps a lost love of mine from a past life, or perhaps just a really, really charming tomcat

Because of Karen's broken knee, she's been unable to bend down to grab her ducks' eggs out of their coop for weeks. Cue me! — New Mexico: April 30th
Because of Karen's broken knee, she's been unable to bend down to grab her ducks' eggs out of their coop for weeks. Cue me!

Lucky the Llama — Roswell: April 30th
Lucky the Llama

three cats, four ducks, a dozen chicken, various dragons, and the occasional Couchsurfing guest (for which she's had hundreds). (2/2) — New Mexico: April 30th
three cats, four ducks, a dozen chicken, various dragons, and the occasional Couchsurfing guest (for which she's had hundreds). (2/2)

Instead of skipping town, I sneak back east a mile to have a rest day at another host's house. Karen is an avid motorcylist and semi-retired sports writer who recently broke her leg in a crash. She shares her home with two llamas, two goats, (1/2) — New Mexico: April 30th
Instead of skipping town, I sneak back east a mile to have a rest day at another host's house. Karen is an avid motorcylist and semi-retired sports writer who recently broke her leg in a crash. She shares her home with two llamas, two goats, (1/2)

Wild guinea hens spotted-wow!! — New Mexico: April 30th
Wild guinea hens spotted-wow!!

This past January, I weighed 220 lbs. I started the journey at 204 after an intense few weeks of keto. Progress. — New Mexico: April 29th
This past January, I weighed 220 lbs. I started the journey at 204 after an intense few weeks of keto. Progress.

New Mexico: April 29th

Rick's extraordinary mineral collection!! it has me drilling him with a million questions, mostly some variation of "what's that one?" over and over and over and over — New Mexico: April 29th
Rick's extraordinary mineral collection!! it has me drilling him with a million questions, mostly some variation of "what's that one?" over and over and over and over

Spaghetti dinner, Galaxy Quest, and look! a double rainbow!! mark my stay at Rick & Peggy's home 🌈 — New Mexico: April 29th
Spaghetti dinner, Galaxy Quest, and look! a double rainbow!! mark my stay at Rick & Peggy's home 🌈

Iconic McDonald's shaped like an UFO. I walked in with my balaclava on and got called "sir," which is becoming fairly typical when I'm wearing it, bwhahaha :-P — New Mexico: April 29th
Iconic McDonald's shaped like an UFO. I walked in with my balaclava on and got called "sir," which is becoming fairly typical when I'm wearing it, bwhahaha 😛

Roswell, NM 👽🛸 1,000 miles left! — New Mexico: April 29th
Roswell, NM 👽🛸 1,000 miles left!

Mostly downhill riding allows me to crank out 36 miles in four hours today which is incredible for me! — New Mexico: April 29th
Mostly downhill riding allows me to crank out 36 miles in four hours today which is incredible for me!

New Mexico: April 28th

Lesser Praire Chicken Conservation Area. It is nearly impossible to drive my stakes into the loose soil, and, even when I manage to, the 17mph wind comes to rip them out. After the thunderstorm earlier, my clothes are now moist and sandy. I will need to add some tar & feathers to win the misery contest. — New Mexico: April 28th
Lesser Praire Chicken Conservation Area. It is nearly impossible to drive my stakes into the loose soil, and, even when I manage to, the 17mph wind comes to rip them out. After the thunderstorm earlier, my clothes are now moist and sandy. I will need to add some tar & feathers to win the misery contest.

New Mexico: April 28th

New Mexico: April 28th

Tatum, NM is at an elevation of 4100ft! First time I’ve seen a sign indicating my elevation out here. Higher than I would have guessed. — New Mexico: April 28th
Tatum, NM is at an elevation of 4100ft! First time I’ve seen a sign indicating my elevation out here. Higher than I would have guessed.

God. I thought NM would be like Utah, a wide expanse of open desert. Instead I foudn myself up against barbed wire fences and private property signs with no where to go last night. I just kept pedalling in the dark in hopes of finding, well, someplace like this — New Mexico: April 28th
God. I thought NM would be like Utah, a wide expanse of open desert. Instead I foudn myself up against barbed wire fences and private property signs with no where to go last night. I just kept pedalling in the dark in hopes of finding, well, someplace like this

Heard the jingling of a collar outside my tent while camped at a rest stop, surrounded by semis. Figured someone was walking their dog. Turns out this fella was wandering around by himself. Let me give him a good pat. — New Mexico: April 28th
Heard the jingling of a collar outside my tent while camped at a rest stop, surrounded by semis. Figured someone was walking their dog. Turns out this fella was wandering around by himself. Let me give him a good pat.

Nothing went according to plan today aside from this moment — New Mexico: April 27th
Nothing went according to plan today aside from this moment

Sal’s front tire goes flat 20 miles from the NM border, and it takes 3.5 hours to fix because my tire levers break early on and I am a complete weakling. 😩 Two Hispanic men with WD-40 and their superior man strength help me. — Texas: April 27th
Sal’s front tire goes flat 20 miles from the NM border, and it takes 3.5 hours to fix because my tire levers break early on and I am a complete weakling. 😩 Two Hispanic men with WD-40 and their superior man strength help me.

A badger! What a find!! — Texas: April 26th
A badger! What a find!!

Last full day in Texas! Getting to see some prairie dogs almost makes up for these monstrous winds .... almost. — Texas: April 24th
Last full day in Texas! Getting to see some prairie dogs almost makes up for these monstrous winds .... almost.

27 mile per hour headwind coming into Lubbock, the strongest I've faced yet. — Texas: April 25th
27 mile per hour headwind coming into Lubbock, the strongest I've faced yet.

I was going to sleep in the local cemetery, but got scared off and ended up in a farmer's field instead. No where else to go. Only time I've had to sleep somewhere so drastic on this journey. Means rising at first light, and no later. — Texas: April 24th
I was going to sleep in the local cemetery, but got scared off and ended up in a farmer's field instead. No where else to go. Only time I've had to sleep somewhere so drastic on this journey. Means rising at first light, and no later.

Getting more into the country with its sagebrush and longhorn cattle and oil pumps and wind turbines and endless barbed wire fencing. — Texas: April 24th
Getting more into the country with its sagebrush and longhorn cattle and oil pumps and wind turbines and endless barbed wire fencing.

T.C. Ponderosa's BBQ, reccomended to me by the family that gave me the $100 bill! — Texas: April 24th
T.C. Ponderosa's BBQ, reccomended to me by the family that gave me the $100 bill!

Texas: April 24th

My go-to convenience store grab these days — Texas: April 24th
My go-to convenience store grab these days

Me and HWY 82 are becoming better acquainted — Texas: April 24th
Me and HWY 82 are becoming better acquainted

Had a coyote screaming bloody murder at me for 40 mins starting at 1 a.m. Got out of my tent to see if my presence would scare it off-no luck. Thought it might come down to a fight for a hot second, it wouldn’t let up. — Texas: April 23rd
Had a coyote screaming bloody murder at me for 40 mins starting at 1 a.m. Got out of my tent to see if my presence would scare it off-no luck. Thought it might come down to a fight for a hot second, it wouldn’t let up.

Red rock and cacti — Texas: April 23rd
Red rock and cacti

My lucky great horned owl feathers. A sudden, violent squal shot by us, carrying a tornado of dust in its wake that would have topped us over had I been riding Sal, yet they didn't blow away. They never do. — Texas: April 23rd
My lucky great horned owl feathers. A sudden, violent squal shot by us, carrying a tornado of dust in its wake that would have topped us over had I been riding Sal, yet they didn't blow away. They never do.

Lost & Lucky — Texas: April 23rd
Lost & Lucky

I went a mile out of my way to stop at a convenience store for an ice cream cone, feeling burnt out from the relentless wind, and a ranching famly stopped to hand me $100!! — Texas: April 23rd
I went a mile out of my way to stop at a convenience store for an ice cream cone, feeling burnt out from the relentless wind, and a ranching famly stopped to hand me $100!!

Slowly moseying along. About halfway across Texas, hoping to be out by next Wednesday. Not much to report since I haven’t been murdered or run over or anything exciting like that. — Texas: April 23rd
Slowly moseying along. About halfway across Texas, hoping to be out by next Wednesday. Not much to report since I haven’t been murdered or run over or anything exciting like that.

Been on the chillier side as of late. I'm a-okay with this since it means I get to wear my balaclava and coat around all day, which has the side effect of helping hide the fact that I am a woman to passerbys. 👍 — Texas: April 22nd
Been on the chillier side as of late. I'm a-okay with this since it means I get to wear my balaclava and coat around all day, which has the side effect of helping hide the fact that I am a woman to passerbys. 👍

. . . under the road by night. — Texas: April 21st
. . . under the road by night.

On the road by day . . . — Texas: April 21st
On the road by day . . .

"There is no right time. There is just time and what you choose to do with it." — Texas: April 21st
"There is no right time. There is just time and what you choose to do with it."

Windthorst General Store — Texas: April 21st
Windthorst General Store

The scissor tailed flycatcher is just, so so achingly beautiful, almost mystical. I'm humbled looking at it., and I'm sorry I couldn't capture my own photo. — Texas: April 19th
The scissor tailed flycatcher is just, so so achingly beautiful, almost mystical. I'm humbled looking at it., and I'm sorry I couldn't capture my own photo.

Holy smokes!! I can't believe I saw this bird today. I can't describe the feeling you get when you see something so extraordinary that you never knew existed, it made my jaw drop. — Texas: April 19th
Holy smokes!! I can't believe I saw this bird today. I can't describe the feeling you get when you see something so extraordinary that you never knew existed, it made my jaw drop.

Entering pronghorn antelope range! — Texas: April 19th
Entering pronghorn antelope range!

All the excuse I need to take a fine photo of Sal — Texas: April 19th
All the excuse I need to take a fine photo of Sal

Halfway there!!!!!! 😀🎉 — Texas: April 19th
Halfway there!!!!!! 😀🎉

Texas: April 19th

Texas: April 19th

Sick of the highway, I've cycled off the beaten path — Texas: April 18th
Sick of the highway, I've cycled off the beaten path

Texas: April 18th

Giant cows!! seen on the last leg of my first 78 mile day! I spend the night in the most beautifully remote cemetery, with graves dating back to the 1700's. Including one notable War of 1812 veteran with fresh flowers placed beside his stone. — Texas: April 15th
Giant cows!! seen on the last leg of my first 78 mile day! I spend the night in the most beautifully remote cemetery, with graves dating back to the 1700's. Including one notable War of 1812 veteran with fresh flowers placed beside his stone.

They've finished making two new lanes on the highway, and I miraculously have them ALL to myself for a few miles!! A dream come true! — Texas: April 15th
They've finished making two new lanes on the highway, and I miraculously have them ALL to myself for a few miles!! A dream come true!

I’ve decided there’s nothing I like more than swimming in a river/creek/lake and so I think the best career path for me going forward will be to morph into the creature from the black lagoon — Texas: April 13th
I’ve decided there’s nothing I like more than swimming in a river/creek/lake and so I think the best career path for me going forward will be to morph into the creature from the black lagoon

Texas: April 12th

A rare photo of me cosplaying as a yellow highlighter captured by Jerry on my way out of Linden! — Texas: April 13th
A rare photo of me cosplaying as a yellow highlighter captured by Jerry on my way out of Linden!

Texas: April 12th

Linden, TX. My Warmshowers host, Jerry, gave me a tour of town! — Texas: April 13th
Linden, TX. My Warmshowers host, Jerry, gave me a tour of town!

No better way to wake up than with a weiner dog in your bed! That is a fact. — Texas: April 13th
No better way to wake up than with a weiner dog in your bed! That is a fact.

The most endearing road to Texas — Arkansas: April 11th
The most endearing road to Texas

Arkansas: April 11th

. . . than this one. Which was, thankfully, on the way out. With a gate that only covered the road. ;-) — Arkansas: April 11th
. . . than this one. Which was, thankfully, on the way out. With a gate that only covered the road. 😉

Sometimes I must gauge how likely I think I am to be believed If I tell someone "shoot, I didn't see the sign." This one is easier to ignore . . . — Arkansas: April 11th
Sometimes I must gauge how likely I think I am to be believed If I tell someone "shoot, I didn't see the sign." This one is easier to ignore . . .

I keep a mental log of my favorite cemeteries to sleep in and this one is up there — Arkansas: April 9th
I keep a mental log of my favorite cemeteries to sleep in and this one is up there

Arkansas: April 9th

Some things never change — Arkansas: April 8th
Some things never change

Dead hog. Shot dead. — Arkansas: April 8th
Dead hog. Shot dead.

I ducked off HWY 82 to escape traffic and ended up on a lovely backcountry dirt road with a patch of grass that had a truly bizarre number of cow skulls lying in it. Weird. — Arkansas: April 8th
I ducked off HWY 82 to escape traffic and ended up on a lovely backcountry dirt road with a patch of grass that had a truly bizarre number of cow skulls lying in it. Weird.

A dragonfly tagging along for the ride!! I also caught a glimpse of a bald eagle and a bullfrog the size of a small cat so a good day for wildlife sightings. (And any day I, myself, don’t get flattened like a pancake by a semi is a fine day all around.) — Arkansas: April 8th
A dragonfly tagging along for the ride!! I also caught a glimpse of a bald eagle and a bullfrog the size of a small cat so a good day for wildlife sightings. (And any day I, myself, don’t get flattened like a pancake by a semi is a fine day all around.)

Emergency stop to take pics of Mr. Snake, who was a very good sport as I narrowly missed flattening him and then backtracked to shove my camera in his face. Not pictured: the two other snakes I saw swimming in the river together. TWOOO! — Arkansas: April 8th
Emergency stop to take pics of Mr. Snake, who was a very good sport as I narrowly missed flattening him and then backtracked to shove my camera in his face. Not pictured: the two other snakes I saw swimming in the river together. TWOOO!

I'm meant to follow HWY 82 across the majority of Arkansas. It has heavier tractor trailor traffic than I've dealt with recently. — Arkansas: April 8th
I'm meant to follow HWY 82 across the majority of Arkansas. It has heavier tractor trailor traffic than I've dealt with recently.

Arkansas: April 8th

Bad news — Arkansas: April 7th
Bad news

Got another torando warning tonight, negligible threat but I’m still glad I’m in a motel room this time and not my tent with the thunderstorm outside. — Arkansas: April 7th
Got another torando warning tonight, negligible threat but I’m still glad I’m in a motel room this time and not my tent with the thunderstorm outside.

Crossing the Mississippi River!!! Last time was in St. Louis. — Mississippi: April 7th
Crossing the Mississippi River!!! Last time was in St. Louis.

At 3 a.m., I jolt awake to the buzzing of a mosquito by my ear and see that my tent door is wide open. 😨 But no one is waiting to grab me outside, so I must have unzipped it in my sleep to freak the hell out of myself later. A restless night by some cell phone towers. — Mississippi: April 7th
At 3 a.m., I jolt awake to the buzzing of a mosquito by my ear and see that my tent door is wide open. 😨 But no one is waiting to grab me outside, so I must have unzipped it in my sleep to freak the hell out of myself later. A restless night by some cell phone towers.

Waiting in line for my first Moderna shot at the Greenville Convention Center! The army is running the drive-thru here. After the jab, I get a sudden, sharp pain in my right eye that forces me to make an emergency pull over and crumble on the ground. — Mississippi: April 6th
Waiting in line for my first Moderna shot at the Greenville Convention Center! The army is running the drive-thru here. After the jab, I get a sudden, sharp pain in my right eye that forces me to make an emergency pull over and crumble on the ground.

First time cycling after dark. — Mississippi: April 5th
First time cycling after dark.

The last ~60 miles of Mississippi is remarkably flat farmland where I get chased by no less than TWENTY dogs. See how many you can spot in this photo. — Mississippi: April 5th
The last ~60 miles of Mississippi is remarkably flat farmland where I get chased by no less than TWENTY dogs. See how many you can spot in this photo.

the middle of nowhere, in the very best way — Mississippi: April 5th
the middle of nowhere, in the very best way

I ran to dump my head under this church's spigot, only to glance up and spot this wonderful tree frog!! Seconds later, a black 90 year old WW2 vet rounds the corner to see what I'm getting up to. — Mississippi: April 5th
I ran to dump my head under this church's spigot, only to glance up and spot this wonderful tree frog!! Seconds later, a black 90 year old WW2 vet rounds the corner to see what I'm getting up to.

Churches seems to crop up every 5 miles, and they make for great places to get water. Though I have learned the hard way that water with high sulfur content may be perfectly fine to drink but smells terribly like rotten eggs. — Mississippi: April 5th
Churches seems to crop up every 5 miles, and they make for great places to get water. Though I have learned the hard way that water with high sulfur content may be perfectly fine to drink but smells terribly like rotten eggs.

It's always easy to forget, and equally reassuring to remember, that someone standing in light cannot see me in the dark like I can see them. — Mississippi: April 4th
It's always easy to forget, and equally reassuring to remember, that someone standing in light cannot see me in the dark like I can see them.

After nightfall, right as I am setting up camp, a car pulls into the parking lot, headlights pointed straight at me. I freeze in place. Pretending to be a tree. Or perhaps a very tall bush. For 5 mins I stand there, watching the man go about his business, until he leaves. — Mississippi: April 4th
After nightfall, right as I am setting up camp, a car pulls into the parking lot, headlights pointed straight at me. I freeze in place. Pretending to be a tree. Or perhaps a very tall bush. For 5 mins I stand there, watching the man go about his business, until he leaves.

Mississippi: April 4th

A chocolate bunny Tracie gave me for Easter that I munched on for many days to come. Not pictured: a batch of homemade cinnamon buns!
the way to my heart ;-) — Mississippi: April 4th
A chocolate bunny Tracie gave me for Easter that I munched on for many days to come. Not pictured: a batch of homemade cinnamon buns! the way to my heart 😉

Matthew & his wife, Kimberly, went to the graveyard to invite me over for the night, not realizing Tracie had taken me home already. When they couldn't find me, they thought I must be hiding, scared and started calmly calling out to me, hahaha (4/4) — Mississippi: April 3rd
Matthew & his wife, Kimberly, went to the graveyard to invite me over for the night, not realizing Tracie had taken me home already. When they couldn't find me, they thought I must be hiding, scared and started calmly calling out to me, hahaha (4/4)

I don't want to give off "single-beady-eyed-man-watching-children-play-outside-his-window" sort of vibes. So I waltz straight up to them, and introduce myself, and get invited home by Matthew's cousin, Tracie. Woooot! (3/4) — Mississippi: April 3rd
I don't want to give off "single-beady-eyed-man-watching-children-play-outside-his-window" sort of vibes. So I waltz straight up to them, and introduce myself, and get invited home by Matthew's cousin, Tracie. Woooot! (3/4)

his family is hosting a party there tonight. Sure enough, when I arrive there are other people mingling near the entrance. I quickly decide that sitting nearby, in the shadows of the graveyard, waiting for them to leave would be the WRONG approach. (2/4) — Mississippi: April 3rd
his family is hosting a party there tonight. Sure enough, when I arrive there are other people mingling near the entrance. I quickly decide that sitting nearby, in the shadows of the graveyard, waiting for them to leave would be the WRONG approach. (2/4)

Saw this fire, unattended. Thought "well, it's probably a controlled burn but just in case" I called 911. Right after, the landowner, Matthew, shows up and confirms it was intentionally set. He then tells me I should be alright camping in his church's yard, but that (1/4) — Mississippi: April 3rd
Saw this fire, unattended. Thought "well, it's probably a controlled burn but just in case" I called 911. Right after, the landowner, Matthew, shows up and confirms it was intentionally set. He then tells me I should be alright camping in his church's yard, but that (1/4)

Mississippi might be my favorite state yet! I feel like I'm finally hitting my groove. Lots of dodging caterpillars on the road today. 🐛 — Mississippi: April 3rd
Mississippi might be my favorite state yet! I feel like I'm finally hitting my groove. Lots of dodging caterpillars on the road today. 🐛

Ughh . . . I'm not sure bikes were supposed to do this . . . morning after regret — Mississippi: April 3rd
Ughh . . . I'm not sure bikes were supposed to do this . . . morning after regret

Mississippi: April 2nd

"Our Heroes: Love's tribute to the noble men who marched 'neath the flag of the stars and bars and were faithful to the end" Unsettling to see a Confederate monument for the first time, and bizarre that it still stands in a town that's nearly 80% black — Mississippi: April 2nd
"Our Heroes: Love's tribute to the noble men who marched 'neath the flag of the stars and bars and were faithful to the end" Unsettling to see a Confederate monument for the first time, and bizarre that it still stands in a town that's nearly 80% black

I opt for the narrow patch of woods in the back. It's closer to the neighbor's property, and forces me crawl through fallen leaves, but my backs protected. Only one way to come for me, and I will see you coming. (2/2) | All the storefronts in Cade are closed — Mississippi: April 2nd
I opt for the narrow patch of woods in the back. It's closer to the neighbor's property, and forces me crawl through fallen leaves, but my backs protected. Only one way to come for me, and I will see you coming. (2/2) | All the storefronts in Cade are closed

I painfully deliberated where to pitch my tent for over an hour. Should I put it behind the building, maybe, where I'm out of sight from the road? No, no, no. That gives me terrible visibility, someone could approach from either direction. Finally, and reluctantly, (1/2) — Mississippi: April 1st
I painfully deliberated where to pitch my tent for over an hour. Should I put it behind the building, maybe, where I'm out of sight from the road? No, no, no. That gives me terrible visibility, someone could approach from either direction. Finally, and reluctantly, (1/2)

they stop at a grave. Oh sh- they aren't here to bust me AT ALL. I hastily shuffle back into the woods feeling like an escaped convict, praying they didn't see me and call the cops. Total weirdo move on my part. My bad. In my defense, I forgot I had the ski mask on. (2/2) — Alabama: March 31st
they stop at a grave. Oh sh- they aren't here to bust me AT ALL. I hastily shuffle back into the woods feeling like an escaped convict, praying they didn't see me and call the cops. Total weirdo move on my part. My bad. In my defense, I forgot I had the ski mask on. (2/2)

I see a couple making a beeline for my tent around dusk. "Well, I'm screwed," I think and hop up to meet them, figuring that is the most socially tact thing to do. Right as I emerge from the woods, clad in a ski mask, staring wide-eyed in their direction (1/2) — Alabama: March 31st
I see a couple making a beeline for my tent around dusk. "Well, I'm screwed," I think and hop up to meet them, figuring that is the most socially tact thing to do. Right as I emerge from the woods, clad in a ski mask, staring wide-eyed in their direction (1/2)

Panicked going down a rough gravel hill and swiveled my front wheel while trying to brake, prompting my own demise. Second fall of the trip — Alabama: March 30th
Panicked going down a rough gravel hill and swiveled my front wheel while trying to brake, prompting my own demise. Second fall of the trip

Tuscaloosa, the only major city I'll pass through in the state — Alabama: March 30th
Tuscaloosa, the only major city I'll pass through in the state

Alabama: March 29th

AirBnB host in West Blocton gave me this old whisky bottle to fill with my leftover milk so I could take it along. Woot! — Alabama: March 28th
AirBnB host in West Blocton gave me this old whisky bottle to fill with my leftover milk so I could take it along. Woot!

$5 Little Cesar's pizzas are my guilty pleasure food, which normally I wouldn't share (re: guilty pleasure), but I have never, ever seen one as good looking as this — Alabama: March 28th
$5 Little Cesar's pizzas are my guilty pleasure food, which normally I wouldn't share (re: guilty pleasure), but I have never, ever seen one as good looking as this

Here, too many options and they all look like they were drawn by a kid with a crayon (2/2) | Moodswinging weather. 30 minute torrential downpour this morning. I, too, feel like crying about having to wake up. — Alabama: March 28th
Here, too many options and they all look like they were drawn by a kid with a crayon (2/2) | Moodswinging weather. 30 minute torrential downpour this morning. I, too, feel like crying about having to wake up.

Routing has got to be the bane of bicycle touring. I can’t wait till I’m further west where you get 3-5 highways to choose from and if you don’t like the one youre on, too bad youre stuck with it for a while. I can appreciate the simplicity in that. 🤪 (1/2) — Alabama: March 28th
Routing has got to be the bane of bicycle touring. I can’t wait till I’m further west where you get 3-5 highways to choose from and if you don’t like the one youre on, too bad youre stuck with it for a while. I can appreciate the simplicity in that. 🤪 (1/2)

Giant puffs of yellow pollen sweep through the air, dancing to the tune of the wind. Here, there, and e v e r y w h e r e! I've never seen anything like it before. — Alabama: March 27th
Giant puffs of yellow pollen sweep through the air, dancing to the tune of the wind. Here, there, and e v e r y w h e r e! I've never seen anything like it before.

I forgot about the chicken biscuit I left in my left pannier. The ants did not. — Alabama: March 27th
I forgot about the chicken biscuit I left in my left pannier. The ants did not.

Shit. Maintenance workers are repairing downed cables-casualties of the tornado-beside the church I was planning to camp at. I reluctantly retreat to my 2nd option. Too risky to pitch my tent, despite the 50% chance of rain at 1 a.m. — Alabama: March 26th
Shit. Maintenance workers are repairing downed cables-casualties of the tornado-beside the church I was planning to camp at. I reluctantly retreat to my 2nd option. Too risky to pitch my tent, despite the 50% chance of rain at 1 a.m.

I sneak into civilization to grab new cargo shorts, seam sealant, three tent poles, and hot cocoa packets like a squirrel snatching a handful of birdseed before scurrying off — Alabama: March 26th
I sneak into civilization to grab new cargo shorts, seam sealant, three tent poles, and hot cocoa packets like a squirrel snatching a handful of birdseed before scurrying off

The tornado touched down 12 miles northwest of me, killing five. — Alabama: March 25th
The tornado touched down 12 miles northwest of me, killing five.

the Michael Tucker Park attendant jerks his thumb south before speeding off in his truck. Monstrous rain & wind ravages my tent around dusk. I emerge after dark to see the main road of the park flooded with water up to my knees. (2/2) — Alabama: March 25th
the Michael Tucker Park attendant jerks his thumb south before speeding off in his truck. Monstrous rain & wind ravages my tent around dusk. I emerge after dark to see the main road of the park flooded with water up to my knees. (2/2)

It's eeriely calm when the sirens go off in town. So calm you start to doubt the need for caution, haste. I feel downright silly for ducking into the campground bathrooms, the only shelter around. "If you chicken out, couple of motels about a mile this way," (1/2) — Alabama: March 25th
It's eeriely calm when the sirens go off in town. So calm you start to doubt the need for caution, haste. I feel downright silly for ducking into the campground bathrooms, the only shelter around. "If you chicken out, couple of motels about a mile this way," (1/2)

The resident cat at the Piedmont Welcome Center, one of 20+ pictures I took of him. I met two cyclists in their 70's there who teasingly called me "Slow Gin." — Alabama: March 24th
The resident cat at the Piedmont Welcome Center, one of 20+ pictures I took of him. I met two cyclists in their 70's there who teasingly called me "Slow Gin."

When I reach a new state, I find myself counting firsts like I'm love-struck. First mile ridden. First person to greet me. First sight that commands me to stop in my track. First town: Piedmont! — Alabama: August 24th
When I reach a new state, I find myself counting firsts like I'm love-struck. First mile ridden. First person to greet me. First sight that commands me to stop in my track. First town: Piedmont!

A wild smile moment — Alabama: March 24th
A wild smile moment

The path ahead — Alabama: March 24th
The path ahead

Into my third state! — Alabama: March 23rd
Into my third state!

Welcome, Traveler — Georgia: March 23rd
Welcome, Traveler

Georgia: March 23rd

Georgia: March 23rd

Mile markers: a quintessential part of any rail trail — Georgia: March 23rd
Mile markers: a quintessential part of any rail trail

Trust Your Struggle — Georgia: March 23rd
Trust Your Struggle

Hey Death, Get Fucked — Georgia: March 23rd
Hey Death, Get Fucked

What do you see when you stare into a tunnel? And what do you think you will find on the other side? — Georgia: March 23rd
What do you see when you stare into a tunnel? And what do you think you will find on the other side?

I wake up alive and unscathed and I note from the crest above my campsite that, even if you looked close, you couldn't see where I slept. Not from the angle most people would pass from. This brings me great consolation. — Georgia: March 23rd
I wake up alive and unscathed and I note from the crest above my campsite that, even if you looked close, you couldn't see where I slept. Not from the angle most people would pass from. This brings me great consolation.

I made the critical mistake of reading about how a female cyclist was bludgeoned to death by a stranger in broad daylight on this trail. And how another woman was savagely beaten. Both years ago, but the knowing haunts me as I stealth camp tonight. — Georgia: March 22nd
I made the critical mistake of reading about how a female cyclist was bludgeoned to death by a stranger in broad daylight on this trail. And how another woman was savagely beaten. Both years ago, but the knowing haunts me as I stealth camp tonight.

Georgia: March 21st

The Silver Comet, a 61.5 mile, fully paved rail trail that stretches to the Alabama border where it connects to the 33 mile long Chief Ladiga Trail. I remember jotting it down on my map when this trip was a fairtytale I told myself to sleep. — Georgia: March 22nd
The Silver Comet, a 61.5 mile, fully paved rail trail that stretches to the Alabama border where it connects to the 33 mile long Chief Ladiga Trail. I remember jotting it down on my map when this trip was a fairtytale I told myself to sleep.

Georgia: March 22nd

A relief to be leaving the concrete jungle — Georgia: March 22nd
A relief to be leaving the concrete jungle

A neat sign to let cyclists know where they can park their bikes, out of sight! — Georgia: March 22nd
A neat sign to let cyclists know where they can park their bikes, out of sight!

A schitzophrenic homeless man that had been mumbling to himself moments prior lunged at me as I passed by, his left arm out and swinging. I think he might have been aiming to whack my flagpole. I hate cities. — Georgia: March 22nd
A schitzophrenic homeless man that had been mumbling to himself moments prior lunged at me as I passed by, his left arm out and swinging. I think he might have been aiming to whack my flagpole. I hate cities.

I had to swerve on and off the trail for a maintence vehicle, while manueving through foot traffic. Sal's front tire caught the lip of the curb and we toppled over. Luckily not INTO anyone, haha, and as far as falls go it was a gentle crash landing! — Georgia: March 21st
I had to swerve on and off the trail for a maintence vehicle, while manueving through foot traffic. Sal's front tire caught the lip of the curb and we toppled over. Luckily not INTO anyone, haha, and as far as falls go it was a gentle crash landing!

A sunflower, for you — Georgia: March 21st
A sunflower, for you

The Rockdale River Trail into Atlanta — Georgia: March 21st
The Rockdale River Trail into Atlanta

Oh my gosh, look at this little picnic table for squirrels. The most delightful sight of the week. — Georgia: March 21st
Oh my gosh, look at this little picnic table for squirrels. The most delightful sight of the week.

They want to downsize it soon for being “too big” so I have been trying (in vain) to convince them that the best solution is to just add a few more cats instead. (I fear I am failing at this endeavor.) — Georgia: March 19th
They want to downsize it soon for being “too big” so I have been trying (in vain) to convince them that the best solution is to just add a few more cats instead. (I fear I am failing at this endeavor.)

My Warmshowers hosts in Conyers, GA have an outdoor CAT HOUSE on their property and it is the absolute coolest thing. — Georgia: March 19th
My Warmshowers hosts in Conyers, GA have an outdoor CAT HOUSE on their property and it is the absolute coolest thing.

In this last week I’ve gone from cotton country to cow landia and now I’m off into the concrete jungles of Atlanta ... — Georgia: March 19th
In this last week I’ve gone from cotton country to cow landia and now I’m off into the concrete jungles of Atlanta ...

Turned around to see whether there was any traffic behind me only to find that I had enmassed an audience. Putnam County is the dairy capital of Georgia! 🐮🐄 — Georgia: March 19th
Turned around to see whether there was any traffic behind me only to find that I had enmassed an audience. Putnam County is the dairy capital of Georgia! 🐮🐄

I have picked up my pace, from 25-30 to 35-45 miles per day! My training regiment for this trip was getting fat and never exercising, so the improvement is encouraging. Let's roll. — Georgia: March 19th
I have picked up my pace, from 25-30 to 35-45 miles per day! My training regiment for this trip was getting fat and never exercising, so the improvement is encouraging. Let's roll.

The world, the road, it wasn't made for cyclists. I am more grateful than I can say for signs like this, that seem to say "You are seen," even if those words are followed by "please, proceed with caution . . ." — Georgia: March 19th
The world, the road, it wasn't made for cyclists. I am more grateful than I can say for signs like this, that seem to say "You are seen," even if those words are followed by "please, proceed with caution . . ."

I scramble into the sliver of woods nearby and, as I'm setting up my tent, I hear people begin to yell. Loud. Their voices moving, maybe drunken? Searching. I freeze. (2/2) — Georgia: March 18th
I scramble into the sliver of woods nearby and, as I'm setting up my tent, I hear people begin to yell. Loud. Their voices moving, maybe drunken? Searching. I freeze. (2/2)

The worst church I've stealth camped at. Bound by roads on all sides, no where to safetly be. Maybe beside the building? By the dumpsters? All too exposed. (1/2) — Georgia: March 18th
The worst church I've stealth camped at. Bound by roads on all sides, no where to safetly be. Maybe beside the building? By the dumpsters? All too exposed. (1/2)

Other than two charley horses in my legs and a slight ache in my arse every morning, I have been remarkably pain free. No noodle legs or crooked back after hopping out of the saddle every day! Now, time to race the sun out of Sparta — Georgia: March 17th
Other than two charley horses in my legs and a slight ache in my arse every morning, I have been remarkably pain free. No noodle legs or crooked back after hopping out of the saddle every day! Now, time to race the sun out of Sparta

While Georgia may be far hillier than I’d like it to be (with, of course, the ideal number of hills being zero) Sal & I are having a hell of a good time. — Georgia: March 17th
While Georgia may be far hillier than I’d like it to be (with, of course, the ideal number of hills being zero) Sal & I are having a hell of a good time.

I've never seen an aloe so BIG! I am amazed!! — Georgia: May 17th
I've never seen an aloe so BIG! I am amazed!!

Thought I heard my doorknob turn in the night. Cue emergency, impromptu barricade! (This seedy motel has those doors where you can’t tell if they’re truly locked from the inside because the moment you turn the knob from within, they springs open) — Georgia: March 16th
Thought I heard my doorknob turn in the night. Cue emergency, impromptu barricade! (This seedy motel has those doors where you can’t tell if they’re truly locked from the inside because the moment you turn the knob from within, they springs open)

Did I make a sudden U-Turn and perch on a small, dangerous shoulder despite the ever-encroaching rainstorm to marvel at this dead hawk? Yes, yes I did. Don't regret it for a moment. Not sure I ever could. — Georgia: March 16th
Did I make a sudden U-Turn and perch on a small, dangerous shoulder despite the ever-encroaching rainstorm to marvel at this dead hawk? Yes, yes I did. Don't regret it for a moment. Not sure I ever could.

Generally, I'm finding cars to be more respectful of me as a cyclist than they used to be when I was a pedestrian. I'm kind of baffled by it, but in the best way. Similar to that feeling you get when you find out your crush likes you back. Wait, what? Wow! — Georgia: March 16th
Generally, I'm finding cars to be more respectful of me as a cyclist than they used to be when I was a pedestrian. I'm kind of baffled by it, but in the best way. Similar to that feeling you get when you find out your crush likes you back. Wait, what? Wow!

The shoulder is tight on HWY 80. Luckily, there are rumble strips in the middle of it so I can hear whether cars are passing me appropriately or not. Semi-truck heaven, but most past graciously. — Georgia: March 16th
The shoulder is tight on HWY 80. Luckily, there are rumble strips in the middle of it so I can hear whether cars are passing me appropriately or not. Semi-truck heaven, but most past graciously.

Cocoa, the blind, elderly chihuahua. She has a fondness for claiming stray clothes "if my butt fits, it sits" and whining when she doesn't get enough attention. Go Cocoa!! — Georgia: March 15th
Cocoa, the blind, elderly chihuahua. She has a fondness for claiming stray clothes "if my butt fits, it sits" and whining when she doesn't get enough attention. Go Cocoa!!

My bed for the night! — Georgia: March 15th
My bed for the night!

"Come, you have my address." Sabrina forgives me for blowing her off last night (she called the EMA station to see if I had been involved in a wreck-ha) and invites me to stay tonight in her converted barnhouse. We eat stir fry + hunt for a rogue mouse. — Georgia: March 15th
"Come, you have my address." Sabrina forgives me for blowing her off last night (she called the EMA station to see if I had been involved in a wreck-ha) and invites me to stay tonight in her converted barnhouse. We eat stir fry + hunt for a rogue mouse.

Waynesboro, GA — Georgia: March 15th
Waynesboro, GA

As the axe of night drops, darkness hurtling towards me-worrying enough for a cop to caution me about being on the highway-I find the perfect place to rest. This church has exterior bathrooms, and their doors are unlocked. Inside, I am wrecked by a charlie horse. — Georgia: March 15th
As the axe of night drops, darkness hurtling towards me-worrying enough for a cop to caution me about being on the highway-I find the perfect place to rest. This church has exterior bathrooms, and their doors are unlocked. Inside, I am wrecked by a charlie horse.

Sardis, a town with no service, no public WiFi. No way to tell my Warmshowers host, Sabrina, that I'm running too late, I don't know what happened, but I won't make it in time. I've never gone AWOL on a host before. — Georgia: March 14th
Sardis, a town with no service, no public WiFi. No way to tell my Warmshowers host, Sabrina, that I'm running too late, I don't know what happened, but I won't make it in time. I've never gone AWOL on a host before.

A kind farmer and AT enthusiast stops to offer me water and goodies-a Jiff Peanut Butter squeeze tube, spare propane tank, toilet paper! (2/2) |
"Life is like a camera ... if things don't work out, take another shot." — Georgia: March 14th
A kind farmer and AT enthusiast stops to offer me water and goodies-a Jiff Peanut Butter squeeze tube, spare propane tank, toilet paper! (2/2) | "Life is like a camera ... if things don't work out, take another shot."

Rolled into a little blip on the map called Millhaven. Just escaped the horrors of pushing my bike down sandy roads sandwiched in between farmers fields. Lost without service, going where no cyclist should (1/2) — Georgia: March 14th
Rolled into a little blip on the map called Millhaven. Just escaped the horrors of pushing my bike down sandy roads sandwiched in between farmers fields. Lost without service, going where no cyclist should (1/2)

State Two :)
Looking at Sal, a true touring bike, in all his glory, makes me feel instantly better. He looks like he belongs out here even when I don't. — Georgia: March 14th
State Two 🙂 Looking at Sal, a true touring bike, in all his glory, makes me feel instantly better. He looks like he belongs out here even when I don't.

I'm so tired. Constantly. I stop to rest every few mins, and I wish I could say it's only cause I'm out of breath. But that's not it. I'm mentally fatigued-frustrated, bored. My mind is too loud and demanding. Sitting down is the only way to break up the monotony. — South Carolina: March 13th
I'm so tired. Constantly. I stop to rest every few mins, and I wish I could say it's only cause I'm out of breath. But that's not it. I'm mentally fatigued-frustrated, bored. My mind is too loud and demanding. Sitting down is the only way to break up the monotony.

Powdered mashed potatoes. Tuna. I brought toooo much, I have no appetite for any of it. Downsizing on a park bench in the rundown town of Allendale. — South Carolina: March 13th
Powdered mashed potatoes. Tuna. I brought toooo much, I have no appetite for any of it. Downsizing on a park bench in the rundown town of Allendale.

I gravely underestimated the number of kamikaze bugs that would be intent on flying straight into my face on a daily basis. On the bright side, there is no shortage of rural churchyards to bounce to and from. — South Carolina: March 12th
I gravely underestimated the number of kamikaze bugs that would be intent on flying straight into my face on a daily basis. On the bright side, there is no shortage of rural churchyards to bounce to and from.

For the first time, I come head-to-head with logging trucks, and every weary encounter feels like it won't be the last. I know it won't be the last. — South Carolina: March 11th
For the first time, I come head-to-head with logging trucks, and every weary encounter feels like it won't be the last. I know it won't be the last.

The mud caking Sal's front wheel after last nights foray. — South Carolina: March 11th
The mud caking Sal's front wheel after last nights foray.

Edisto River WMA. Set aside as a public bird dog training zone. Swampy, 80F climate has the mosquitos alive & thriving & happy to make dinner out of me. In MARCH. My tentpole also snaps trying to put it up for the first time, a demoralizing shock. — South Carolina: March 10th
Edisto River WMA. Set aside as a public bird dog training zone. Swampy, 80F climate has the mosquitos alive & thriving & happy to make dinner out of me. In MARCH. My tentpole also snaps trying to put it up for the first time, a demoralizing shock.

A public paved road Google Maps led me down quickly turned to gravel, then thick, soul-syphoning mud, then backcountry dirt without any clear indication of it being private ... until I exited through a gate and saw the signs on the other side — South Carolina: March 10th
A public paved road Google Maps led me down quickly turned to gravel, then thick, soul-syphoning mud, then backcountry dirt without any clear indication of it being private ... until I exited through a gate and saw the signs on the other side

Mud. Oh god. So much mud. Neverending, monstrous mud. Up to my knees. Clogging Sal's wheels so they won't spin. The worst terrain I ever face on this trip. — South Carolina: March 10th
Mud. Oh god. So much mud. Neverending, monstrous mud. Up to my knees. Clogging Sal's wheels so they won't spin. The worst terrain I ever face on this trip.

While scoping out a cemetery for stealth camping, I stumbled acoss multiple confederate soldiers' graves. — South Carolina: March 10th
While scoping out a cemetery for stealth camping, I stumbled acoss multiple confederate soldiers' graves.

Barred owl-a wonderous find. — South Carolina: March 10th
Barred owl-a wonderous find.

South Carolina: March 10th

South Carolina: March 9th

West Ashley Greenway, 8 miles of paved trail to ease into things — South Carolina: March 9th
West Ashley Greenway, 8 miles of paved trail to ease into things

My fondness for taking pictures of Sal knows no bounds. Just look at that caboose he's packing! Bwhahaha — South Carolina: March 9th
My fondness for taking pictures of Sal knows no bounds. Just look at that caboose he's packing! Bwhahaha

Paralleling an existing route, even if it's only for a few miles, is reasurring. Makes me feel like a part of something bigger than myself. A confidence booster with traffic. "I'm supposed to be here, dammit!" — South Carolina: March 9th
Paralleling an existing route, even if it's only for a few miles, is reasurring. Makes me feel like a part of something bigger than myself. A confidence booster with traffic. "I'm supposed to be here, dammit!"

The pathway home — South Carolina: March 9th
The pathway home

The French Quarter of Charleston. The most perfectly thrilling city to cycle through. Not oh-god-I'm-going-to-die levels of intensity, nor snore-worthy. Heart-racing without feeling life threatening. — South Carolina: March 9th
The French Quarter of Charleston. The most perfectly thrilling city to cycle through. Not oh-god-I'm-going-to-die levels of intensity, nor snore-worthy. Heart-racing without feeling life threatening.

Cobblestone streets, horse drawn carriages, back alley ways, palm trees, and antebellum houses. Charleston is my most favorite city. And every November they host a young adult book festival, which makes me love it all the more :-) — South Carolina: March 9th
Cobblestone streets, horse drawn carriages, back alley ways, palm trees, and antebellum houses. Charleston is my most favorite city. And every November they host a young adult book festival, which makes me love it all the more 🙂

Look at me! at Waterfront Park. Feels wrong to start on a boardwalk, unable to touch the ocean, as if it's against some unwritten cross country code. But? I got to see a pod of dolphins for the first time here, and that felt like a bit of meant magic. — South Carolina: March 9th
Look at me! at Waterfront Park. Feels wrong to start on a boardwalk, unable to touch the ocean, as if it's against some unwritten cross country code. But? I got to see a pod of dolphins for the first time here, and that felt like a bit of meant magic.

The beginning of a new life. Or, better said, the return to my old life. — South Carolina: March 9th
The beginning of a new life. Or, better said, the return to my old life.

On my second test run, my flagpole jutted into the wheel, bending my tire tube's valve. A cautious cyclist might replace it to avoid the possibility of a sudden flat. Me? — The Before
On my second test run, my flagpole jutted into the wheel, bending my tire tube's valve. A cautious cyclist might replace it to avoid the possibility of a sudden flat. Me?

These Kool-Stop Dura-Ace Brake Pads were highly rated. Couldn't justify buying new ones for both wheels, though, after I found out 70% of the stopping power is in your front wheel and my budget is 100% too tight, haha — The Before
These Kool-Stop Dura-Ace Brake Pads were highly rated. Couldn't justify buying new ones for both wheels, though, after I found out 70% of the stopping power is in your front wheel and my budget is 100% too tight, haha

My red blood cells + saline + mystery fluid is returned to me at the end of a donation period. This changes the tube from the rich dark red to a candy colored one.
You’re not, really, supposed to take photos in the plasma center. — The Before
My red blood cells + saline + mystery fluid is returned to me at the end of a donation period. This changes the tube from the rich dark red to a candy colored one. You’re not, really, supposed to take photos in the plasma center.

Nearly a liter of plasma is taken. That's 1/5 of the amount in your body. Which means, in total, I’ve sold enough blood to fill 4 people. Though far less than half a bath tub's worth. — The Before
Nearly a liter of plasma is taken. That's 1/5 of the amount in your body. Which means, in total, I’ve sold enough blood to fill 4 people. Though far less than half a bath tub's worth.

Selling plasma to raise money for the journey. $50-100 for an hour of being
a guinea pig. I'm young enough for the needle piercing to hardly scar. — The Before
Selling plasma to raise money for the journey. $50-100 for an hour of being a guinea pig. I'm young enough for the needle piercing to hardly scar.

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