I have had the honor of writing this comprehensive guide on how to cross the United States on horseback for the Long Riders Guild as part of their “How To” series. It will be featured on their website by years end (2024).
4. “Lodging”
5. “Weather”
6. “Horse Care”
7. “Food”
9. “Safety”
Finding Your Horse
Since the Long Riders’ Guild has a wealth of information available on what goes into choosing a good road horse, I will simply summarize the basics.
A good road horse is of no particular breed. An ocean to ocean ride has been made by countless Quarter Horses, Arabians, Appaloosas, Fjords, Mustangs, Morgans, Mules, Thoroughbreds, various draft and gaited horses, the list goes on.
Some key features to look for include: a brave disposition, an easy keeper, good hooves, and thick skin. If your horse lacks any one of these qualities, the journey will be harder. My mount possessed all of these except thick skin which made recurring rain rot outbreaks the bane of our ride.
In the U.S. the Quarter Horse is king. It is America’s quintessential breed. When I met fellow horsemen on my cross-country ride, 8 times out of 10, they had quarter horses. I have no doubt they are the breed you will encounter most, both when looking to purchase a horse and while on the road. A Quarter Horse can make a suitable mount, but they can vary widely in build, so assess them on an individual basis as you would any other horse.
Unfortunately, in present times more and more horses are being selectively bred for performance in racing or showing circles at the expense of their overall health and longevity. Modern day Thoroughbreds tend to possess poorer quality hooves and weaker digestive systems than their ancestors, colicing more easily than other stock breeds. Though there are Thoroughbreds that flout these stereotypes and, as previously stated, multiple examples have gone ocean to ocean successfully. This alarming trend is worth noting as it has impacted many breeds.
Horses can be purchased through private sellers, horse dealers, and auction houses in the U.S. There are various online sites dedicated to buying and selling horses. Craigslist and Facebook are two other outlets. Craigslist is where a lot of casual backyard horsemen list their animals for sale. Facebook is becoming an increasingly popular marketplace.
I would strongly caution against leasing a horse. Buy outright. Get a Bill of Sale confirming your ownership. Negotiating on price is standard practice in the U.S. Pre-purchase examinations by a vet are available and encouraged by any ethical horse seller. Consider having one done.
Horse prices have skyrocketed in the U.S. in the last decade. Yet while a high price tag may signify a good horse, it is no guarantee of one. So despite this trend, there are still many good horses for cheap. Especially given that the U.S. has more horses than it can sustain. There are a lot of diamonds in the rough simply waiting to be picked and polished for a low price, provided you have a good eye for rough stock and are willing to take on a project, or you get lucky.
The Bureau of Land Management sells mustangs fresh off the range for $125 apiece.
If you have no interest in projects, as of 2024, on average, I would estimate that a horse with good conformation and minimal vices, well-established under saddle, can be reasonably found for $3,000-6,000.
Do you want one horse or two? Your decision will be dependent on the amount of weight you anticipate carrying, coupled with personal preference. The rule of thumb is that a horse should carry no more than 20% of their total body weight, though this can depend on conformation and fitness.
It is absolutely possible to cross the U.S. with a single mount, never trading out horses. I did so with success, as have many other Long Riders.
For the sake of simplicity, going forward, I will refer to horses singularly in this article, even though I recognize that you may be traveling with multiple horses.
While you should condition your horse as much as possible prior to departure so their top line and other muscles are well defined, having a horse that is at its physical best, completely “legged-up,” is not necessary provided you are willing to take things slow in the beginning, leading your horse more often and covering less mileage. In this way, they can acclimate to the demands of travel slowly, building on their fitness along the way.
Riding ocean to ocean is not a race. You should always be traveling at the pace your horse requires given their present condition, prioritizing their health and well-being above all else.
Gear & Tack
My #1 piece of advice would be to have your saddle properly fitted before starting, whether by yourself or with the help of a professional. Spare no effort or expense here. Long riding is, arguably, the most intensive form of riding there is. Nothing derails or destroys a long ride faster than poor saddle fit.
In the U.S. there are professional saddle fitters who can assist you if you lack expertise. Though be warned: anyone can claim this title, as it requires no certifications or accredited education, so be selective in who you hire!
One suggestion is to trailer your horse to a tack shop, accompanied by a saddle fitter if needed, and try on dozens of saddles. A saddle’s weight and style come secondary to fit.
By far, English and Western saddles are the two most common styles you will find in the U.S. There may be a smattering of used endurance, Australian, Ortho Flex, McClellan, etc., saddles in any given tack store too.
Some tack shops in the U.S. offer trial periods on their saddles so, after placing a refundable deposit, you can take 1-3 saddles home to test ride more thoroughly. This is a great option to have if you can find a tack shop with such a policy!
Another recommendation is to spend as much time as possible in your chosen saddle and pad to work out any imperfections before departure. Casual rides, as you may be accustomed to, are not enough to test a saddle for long riding. In the same way that you can walk every day in a particular shoe, but if you attempted to backpack in that same pair, you would incur blisters and sore feet within days. Do a full trial run of your saddle. Start by conditioning your horse to 0-10 mile rides. Then go out and ride 10-20 miles, multiple days in a row, and see how their back fares.
Ultimately, saddle fit is a complex subject. Horses’ backs are so dynamic. Despite your best intentions, problems can still arise. Rubs and sores can occur after months without issue. Unfortunately, it’s not uncommon for first time long riders to have their horse sustain white hairs on the saddle support area.
White hairs form on a horse when some kind of damage has been sustained to the underlying pigment cells (melanocytes) within the hair follicles on their skin. If detected immediately, with the source of the damage removed, white hairs can be temporary, falling out with the horse’s next shedding cycle. However, they are more often than not permanent and, unfortunately, can form rather quickly.
Please note that the sheer presence of white hairs on a horse does not signify that a rider’s present tack improperly fits or that the horse is in pain—rather, the white hairs could have been inflicted months or years prior with the problem tack no longer in use and the horse now in prime health. In the same way you can fall, scrape your knee, and somehow sustain a lifelong scar from the seemingly mild injury.
This hair color changing phenomenon actually serves as the basis for freeze branding.
Suffice to say, be as precise and as diligent as you can to avoid improper saddle fit and the injuries that come with it.
Lisa D. Stewart, an American Long Rider and co-founder of the Ortho Flex saddle, has previously written this article for the Guild on the nuances of saddle fit.
My 2nd piece of advice would be to not underestimate the need for a good saddle pad.
Many people tend to concentrate all their attention on choosing the right saddle while giving little consideration for their pad. This is a mistake! Your choice in saddle pad is of near equal importance. After all, your saddle pad is what is cushioning the impact of your weight for the horse, and the best of pads can even compensate for slight deficiencies in saddle fit!
My #3rd piece of advice would be to minimize your gear.
The more you have, the greater burden it is on you and your horse.
You can pack nearly identically to a backpacker with the addition of your horse supplies. All sorts of newfangled ultra-light camping gear have come to the U.S. market in the last 30 years that are of great benefit to the weight-conscious Long Rider. A tent and sleeping bag can collectively weigh just 4-5 lbs.
Many Long Riders do not bother with a sleeping pad when they can simply lie on their saddle pad at night for cushion and insulation.
On my ride, I never carried a hoof pick. I simply used the dull side of my pocket knife. I carried one horse brush. After I misplaced it in Wyoming, I went to the local dollar store and bought another for $2. It functioned just as well despite not being marketed for horses.
Some gear requires careful consideration. Other gear you just don’t need to over think.
My rope halter and lead rope were dual-purpose, acting as my bridle and reins as well. I opted out of carrying a stove and pot, simply buying food that didn’t require cooking.
There is little advice I can give on gear & tack that does not relate to the general long rider, much of which has been described at length on this site.
Some key points –
Have a free standing tent. Carry extra stakes and an emergency splint in case a pole snaps. Waterproofing spray can be purchased online or in outdoor stores to re-coat a worn tent.
Consider keeping your saddle in the tent at night to avoid damage caused by rain or wildlife when wild camping. I never did until Wyoming when I woke up one morning to a chewed saddle horn, courtesy of a local field mouse craving salt. I learned my lesson after that.
Picketing/tethering is a critical skill for your horse to learn before setting off. If I were asked—“What should I teach my horse to prepare for a long ride?”—my answer, aside from generic desensitizing exercises, would be picketing.
Portable electric fences, highlines, and hobbles are other suitable methods of containment. I would venture to say that none of them are as versatile as picketing for the ocean to ocean rider. Highlines require two fixed structures to tie off to. Electric fences are bulky to carry. Hobbles limit forward movement but not enough if, say, you wanted to camp in an open baseball field because of an active roadway. You’ll sleep in all sorts of unconventional suburban places like this on an ocean to ocean ride.
Use a quick-release knot at the tie-off point of your tether and keep a knife handy that can readily slice through rope in case of an emergency.
A pack scale is invaluable in making sure your saddlebags are even in weight everyday. I bought one advertised as a luggage scale off of Amazon.
If you use hoof boots, carry spare parts for self-repairs in the field.
A portable battery pack/power bank is essential for charging electronics. Make sure it is a fast-charging model.
Caged stirrups, or tapaderos, can be used to prevent your feet from getting stuck in your stirrups in the event of a fall. Heeled boots are a traditional way to prevent this but recall on a long ride that you will be walking a portion of every day, so you need to ensure your shoes are equipped for long mileage.
Carry a garbage bag, plus a few spares, to be able to pick up your horse’s manure on rare occasions. In the countryside while actively riding, you will never need to bother, but in certain residential areas it can be courteous to. I always made sure to do this on sidewalks, quickly disposing of the bag in the nearest dumpster. Some hosts may want you to clean up their yard after camping too. A garbage bag can also serve as an impromptu waterproof bag. I would wrap one, unsullied by manure, of course, around my bedroll during storms since my bedroll wouldn’t fit in a zip lock bag.
Backcountry packers carry an ax or a razor-tooth folding saw to cut through downed trees in their path. This is commonly suggested for riders on the PCT but is not necessary for the ocean to ocean rider.
How do you receive mail on the road while traveling without a permanent address?
Incredibly, in the U.S. you can have packages shipped through the United States Postal Service (USPS) and held at post offices, awaiting your arrival for 2-4 weeks. Simply include the words “General Delivery” in the address line of your package. Nearly all towns in the U.S. have post offices, though a few do not honor “General Delivery” so be sure to check their policies online or call in advance.
There is one caveat. You cannot ship packages through UPS or FedEx to a post office for pickup. Unfortunately, Amazon tends to ship their packages with one of these providers which can make it difficult to purchase from their site, despite the appeal of their vast inventory and fast shipping.
Many hosts are willing to hold packages for you if you can arrange with them in advance. This list reflects my gear by the end of the journey which remained relatively stable for the last 2-3 months.
I weighed 135-150 lbs. My saddle weighed 25 lbs. The rest of my tack and packs weighed another 20-25 lb. Total carrying weight fluctuated between 185-200 lbs. My horse weighed 1,020 lbs, as confirmed by veterinary scales.
My gear list:
Finley’s Tack
➣saddle
➣pad
➣breast collar, wither strap
➣front cinch, back cinch, cinch protector
➣hoof boots (4)
➣rope halter, fleece covers
➣lead rope/reins combo
➣ID tag
➣GPS tracker
➣Rotating items: sponge (in summer)
My Outfit
➣shirt
➣bandanna
➣undershirt
➣pants
➣leggings
➣underwear
➣socks
➣shoes
➣gloves
➣reflective vest
➣helmet
Horn bag 1
(2.5 — 3.2 lbs, dead weigh)
➣ 1/2 of my picket rope with hobble
Miscellaneous personal gear (in 1 gallon ziplock bag):
➣Hairbrush
➣Deodorant
➣Sunscreen
➣Lighter
➣Duct tape
➣Hair ties
➣Toothbrush/paste
➣Paracord
➣Spare batteries
➣Copy of Finley’s ID tag
➣Sewing kit
➣Hoof boot parts
➣ Rotating items: water bottle, grain
Horn bag 2
(2.5 — 3.2 lbs, dead weight)
➣ 1/2 of my picket rope
Electronics (in 1 gallon ziplock bag):
➣Battery pack
➣Rear tail light
➣wall charger (2-3)
➣iPhone cord (1-2)
➣USB cord (2)
➣USB-C cord (2)
➣ Rotating items: water bottle, grain
Cantle bag 1
(4.5 — 5.5 lbs, dead weight)
➣Rain coat
➣Journal, pen, paperwork
➣Liniment, SWAT, vetricyn
➣Tent stakes, splint
➣Horse brush
➣ Rotating items: bug spray, food
Cantle bag 2
(4.5 — 5.5 lbs, dead weight)
➣Tent rain fly
➣Tent pole
➣Bute, banamine, electrolyte paste
➣Spare clothes — underwear (1), socks (2)
➣Rotating items: bug spray, food
Bedroll Bag
(4.7 lbs, dead weight)
➣ Tent body
➣ Sleeping bag
Backpack
(3-4 lbs, live weight)
➣ Medical kit
➣ Light jacket
➣ Water filter
➣ Headlight
➣ Garbage bag, ziplock bags, napkins/toilet paper
➣ Rotating items: salt, fluid flavor packets, water bottles (1-2), owl feathers
Pants Pockets
(2-3 lbs, live weight)
➣phone
➣GPS tracker
➣ wallet
➣lip balm
➣ pepper spray
➣knife
➣ battery pack with iPhone cord
➣ Rotating items: bear spray (in Rockies)
Planning Your Route
An ocean to ocean ride in the U.S. is typically 3,000 to 3,500 miles long, though the crossing can be done in as little as 2,500 miles or as many as 5,000+ miles, depending on your route.
On average, it takes between five to ten months with most riders averaging 10 to 20 miles a day.
While setting off blindly is never advised, your entire route does not need to be mapped out prior to departure either. Such a preoccupation with having the perfect itinerary is well-meaning but futile. It’s what separates the armchair critic from the true adventurer. It’s very possible to route on the fly, only plotting ahead a few hours, days or weeks in advance. Most riders do just that. On the road, change is constant, so being flexible is key.
Your route will ultimately be shaped by a variety of factors: direction, geography, climate, time of year, traffic density, cities, bridges, and local input. Also included in this section is information on navigation and example routes.
Direction
Your foremost consideration – do you want to travel East to West or West to East?
Both directions are equally viable. Your choice will come down to your personal preference and your timing as it relates to the geography and climate.
Geography
First, let me briefly summarize the major regions of the United States:
The East has a high population density and, by extension, a great number of roads and resources to access. Towns are spaced close together, rarely more than a day or two’s ride apart; this proximity can aid in lightening your horse’s load by providing more
frequent access to services. Back roads are typically paved in the northeast but less so in the southeast. The region boasts considerable tree cover and the vast majority of the land is privately owned.
The Midwest, or “Great Plains,” consists mainly of soy, corn, swine, and bovine farming operations. The region has a low population density. Towns are spaced further apart but are still rarely more than a two to five day ride away. Most states are on a grid system. Farm machinery, from tractors to harvesters, is most active on roadways in this region. As one travels further west, gravel roads become more common. For instance, while most back roads in Ohio, Indiana, and Illinois are paved, nearly all back roads in Iowa, Nebraska, and Wyoming are gravel. The vast majority of land is privately owned.
The West is the most geographically diverse region of the U.S., characterized by its prominent mountain ranges – the Rockies, the Cascades, the Sierras, and the Coastal mountains – and expansive deserts, such as the Great Basin and the Mojave. Towns are spaced the farthest apart. The terrain is the most technicallychallenging with fewer roads in each state. A significant portion of the land is publicly owned.
Climate
Naturally, graze will be the most limited in winter and the most abundant in the spring and summer, so timing your ride to fall within the “weather window” of April through October is recommended.
While traveling in winter is not ideal, it remains possible in most of the continental U.S. aside from the major mountain ranges, provided extra precautions are taken to ensure your mount remains well fed such as having a support vehicle, multiple pack horses, supplies cached ahead, or hosts strategically positioned along the way.
Note: the colder it is, the greater amount of energy your horse will expend, meaning the more calories they will need to sustain themselves at a time when pastures have reduced nutritional value!
Northern states have harsher winters with blistering winds and temperatures routinely dropping below 0°F / -17°C. Southern states have milder winters with temperatures routinely reaching into the 50’s F / 10’s C. In January, commonly the coldest month of the year, the average daytime temperaturein Fargo, North Dakota is 19°F / -7°C while the average daytime temperature in Dallas,Texas is 56°F / 13°C
So if you aim to travel in the winter, stay south!
The Rocky Mountains are impassable in the winter due to snow pack. This can be any time from October to May, guaranteed from November through April. The Cascades in Washington and Oregon, and the Sierra Nevada’s in California, are similarly snow packed in winter. This fact will determine your timing.
In the 19th century, pioneers hurried to summit the Rocky Mountains before snowfall. South Pass was the favored way to go on the Oregon Trail, the California Trail, the Mormon Trail, and the Pony Express Trail. If the pioneers could not make the cutoff, they were forced to winter on the eastern flank of the mountains until spring.
The Rockies may embody the untamed, rugged beauty of the West, but the mountain range also serves as the ultimate gatekeeper to the coasts.
Time of Year
Thus, if your aim is to ride ocean to ocean within one calendar year:
The west bound rider should ideally begin between February and April. March is a popular choice. An early start may make for less access to graze initially, but it will allow for ample time to reach the Rockies and Sierras/Cascades before snowfall.
The east bound rider is left waiting for the snow to thaw in the Sierras/Cascadesto begin their journey. The best time to leave is between April and June. A later departure will make for a winter run to the Atlantic Ocean.
An exception to both of these timelines is that of the southerly rider, who crosses through the deserts of Arizona and New Mexico to avoid the brunt of the Rocky Mountains. This passage can theoretically be taken year-round, yet finding adequate feed for your mount and dealing with the extreme temperature differentials in these deserts is a serious logistical challenge.
Some Long Riders choose, or are otherwise obligated, to split their ride into two years.I began my journey from New Jersey in May, 2022, wintering in Nebraska from December through mid-April, only to resume travel to Oregon through September, 2023.
Traffic Density
Traffic is THE greatest danger posed to ocean to ocean riders!
Consider looking into “traffic volume maps” for each state you intend to pass through. Examples: Pennsylvania , Wyoming.
Another idea is to look up “official bicycle routes in ” as certain states designate official routes for cyclists based on what roads within their jurisdiction are low-trafficked. Examples: Ohio , Kansas.
Traffic is not necessarily a greater threat in any particular region of the U.S.
The East has a greater density of people and roads to choose from, resulting in an abundance of back roads that parallel the major highways.
The Midwest features a grid system in many of its states with a considerable number of back roads that run east-west or north-south.
The West has fewer people and, consequently, fewer routes to choose from. Sometimes there are no back roads at all. Riders may be resigned to a select few highways. (A silver lining to this is that it makes it hard to get lost!) Other times you might have access to vast wilderness stretches. Be mindful that a lot of land out west is fenced off for cattle, whether privatized or public.
Thankfully, it is possible to ride beside a road rather than on it for a lot of the U.S. So certain highways, despite their high levels of traffic, can actually be a pleasure to ride beside.
Major exceptions to this include narrow mountain passes and bridges.
Cities
As a general rule of thumb, cities should be avoided whenever possible. “Concrete jungles,” as they’re affectionately nicknamed, are becoming increasingly unfriendly to non-motorized transportation.
Though there is nothing necessarily wrong with riding through a city provided your mount is properly conditioned to it, so use discretion.
The nice thing about all cities, in addition to many mid to small sized towns, in the U.S. is that they have sidewalks which provide a safe path for pedestrians to walk adjacent to the road. A sidewalk can similarly offer respite to riders in areas where it is legal for horses to access them.
If concerns arise about the congestion of traffic on the road, consider opting to ride or lead your mount on the sidewalk instead.
Idaho Falls, Idaho, with a population of 67,000, and Corvallis, Oregon, with a population of 60,000, were the two largest cities I passed through.
Bridges
Proceed with caution over bridges, whether they span vast rivers or small creeks! Aside from mountain passes, bridges may be the most dangerous part of any U.S. road. Most bridges do not have shoulder space so you must claim the entire lane of traffic to successfully cross. Some bridges are grated which means they have see-through flooring.
All ocean to ocean riders must cross the mighty Mississippi River.
I highly recommend researching any major upcoming bridges on your route in advance of your arrival. If in doubt, trailer your mount over a bridge or see if you can arrange fora police escort. Locals may also offer to escort you, driving behind you in their car with blinkers flashing.
Certain bridges forbid horseback riders outright, so be mindful of this as well.
To cross the Delaware River, I reviewed bridges on Google Maps “street view” in advance. Three out of four contenders had identical “horses not permitted on bridge” signs posted at their entrances, so I made sure to take the fourth and final option, a pedestrian-only walkway with no explicit rules on horses.
On route to the Illinois River, a local couple stopped, unprompted, to offer to escort me across safely.
To cross the Mississippi River, I arranged for a police escort.
By chance, a tractor needed to cross the Missouri River at the same moment I arrived. They had a pilot car block the opposing lane as I accompanied the tractor across. This bridge was grated.
Local Input
Automobiles and GPS systems have made many Americans unaccustomed to their own back roads, particularly on the East Coast. Even if locals are familiar with a road in question, they may not be certain of its suitability for horses. Yet local input can be an invaluable source of wisdom too. So seek out advice regularly but trust your intuition.
Navigation
Use satellite maps to view road conditions. This can save your life! I have used satellite mode on Google Maps countless times to gauge how safe a road is by the length of its shoulder.
Google Maps can also be used to generate potential routes from Point A to Point B. You can further designate whether you want a driving, walking, or cycling route. (Generally, I view the suggested route for walking AND cycling, as there seems to be an arbitrary distinction between the two modes despite producing different results.)
Google has a similar, yet distinct platform called “My Maps” that allows for more precise long-distance route planning that is then downloadable.
I know that Gaia GPS is a popular app among backpackers, though it requires a yearly subscription fee to use its offline mapping feature. Caltopo is another option. Admittedly, I have no experience with either.
I use an app called “My.Maps” (separate from the Google service of the same name– confusing, I know!) for all of my navigational needs. It has the same primary features as Google Maps and Gaia GPS but with free offline maps for every state in the U.S. I can easily track my mileage with this app and see the elevation gains/drops on my route with remarkable accuracy. Many times I have used it to check how much further an ascent goes,
Paper maps are increasingly falling out of favor due to their fragility and bulk, but they certainly remain a good option, easily the safest, especially as a backup in remote stretches. Ensure all paper maps are kept in a waterproof container such as a ziplock bag.
Example Routes
Before delving into this section, I’d like to emphasize: you’re encouraged to chart a unique path for yourself! Given how vast the U.S. is, with thousands of roads crisscrossing the country, no two journeys are ever really the same. Every ocean to ocean Long Rider goes their own way in the end. And yet, the routes others have taken can offer invaluable inspiration and insights, acting as a guide or even a starting point for your own journey.
The American Discovery Trail (ADT) is a route from Delaware to California designed for backpackers to be able to cross the country using the greatest percentage of non motorized paths possible.
What Long Riders need to know about the ADT –
It primarily consists of roadways despite its name.
It clocks in at 5,057 miles! That is 1,000-2,000 miles longer than an ocean to ocean ride needs to be. As a result, most people who set off with the grand intention of completing the ADT wind up simply using it as a guide.
Not all of the ADT is accessible to or suitable for horses. It needlessly goes through multiple major cities with horses being banned from certain sections outright, like the 270-mile Katy Trail which spans nearly the entire length of Missouri.
That being said, parts of the ADT are horse friendly and can be incorporated into your ocean to ocean ride. Long Rider Samantha Szesciorka is the leading authority on the trail through Nevada as she has ridden that state’s portion and now serves as the Nevada state coordinator for the ADT.
Unfortunately, it is not uncommon for riders to be barred from “rail trails,” defunct railroad beds converted to non-motorized paths, across the U.S. There are exceptions to this rule, such as the 189-mile Cowboy Trail in Nebraska or the 229-mile Palouse to
Cascades State Park Trail in Washington. Both are equestrian friendly, traffic-free rail trails that span east-west!
Traildino offers free downloadable gpx files of many long distance trails in the U.S. Cross-country cycling routes are created and maintained by The Adventure Cycling Association (ACA). The most popular ACA route is the “Trans America” spanning from Virginia to Oregon, followed by the Northern Tier and the Southern Tier. I mention this because, while the interests of bicycle tourists and Long Riders differ significantly, they share the same core objective: to cross the country as safely as possible. Thus, there may be merit to researching which paths cyclists have taken. A quick Google search will turn up thousands of detailed maps and diary entries.
Howard Woodridge, a Long Rider who has ridden ocean to ocean in both directions, has provided a written description of his 2002 east-west route on the Guild’s website.
I mapped the entirety of my own 3,600-mile long ride from New Jersey to Oregon. Each road of mine is color-coded by difficulty, and many roads have captions describing them.
A few weeks before departure, I meticulously mapped out my route across New Jersey. I used Google Maps to examine every single road. With New Jersey being the most densely populated state in the U.S., and my horse at his freshest starting out, I wanted to eliminate as much uncertainty as possible in our early days. Really, on any ocean to ocean ride, your first week has the potential to be the most stressful, so if you can sort your initial route and/or lodging in advance, it can make the transition to life on the road easier.
In other words, this foresight can give you some peace of mind at a time when you’re otherwise struggling not to lose your mind! As beginnings have a tendency to do to people. Ha. After New Jersey, I eased up, allowing my route to unravel more along the way, with only certain parameters set from the beginning: I knew I wanted to take the 140-mile Horse Shoe Trail in Pennsylvania and the 189-mile Cowboy Trail in Nebraska; I wanted to see the Wind River Range in Wyoming; and I wanted to take my horse, Finley, to his homelands in Oregon.
And hey! Don’t forget that people did this sort of thing before the internet was invented. They were led by paper maps and word of mouth, back when there was no Google, no GPS systems, no phones at all.
It was possible then.
It’s even more possible now.
Lodging
The eastern half of the U.S. is largely privatized, so finding hosts is essential, while the western half has abundant public land to freely camp on. The two states with the greatest percentage of public lands are Utah at 63% and Nevada at 80%.
The Bureau of Land Management has interactive maps of federally owned land on their website: One. Two.
Stables, boarding barns, fair grounds, rodeo grounds, and cowboy churches are all potential places to stay. Google Maps is a good search tool to use. Call ahead to facilities to ask about their accommodations.
Campgrounds and RV parks that don’t traditionally accommodate horses may be willing to allow a short term stay if you explain your circumstances and offer to clean up after your mount.
Another option is to inquire with local town halls and police departments about public lands under their jurisdiction that you may be granted permission to use.
Hosts can be found through chance encounters, mutual contacts (after staying with one family, often they will introduce you to their friends down the road), social media, and by knocking on strangers’ doors. The latter is best done in the countryside where farmers have lots of acreage. This is sometimes called “yard camping”.
I secured hosts through door-knocking 12 times on my ride, all on the East coast.
Staying with hosts often provides the perfect opportunity to shower and do laundry. Otherwise, many campgrounds and fair grounds have showering facilities, and certain mid-sized towns have laundromats. I only visited a laundromat once during my entire ride.
Never approach a home with “No Trespassing” or “Keep Out” signs.
“Stealth camping” is the act of camping without explicit permission on public lands or unmarked privatized land, pitching camp after dark and leaving before first light. This is done out of desperation and, given the legality of it, is discouraged. I resorted to stealth camping 14 times on my ride, all but three times on the East coast.
Social media can be used to find lodging as there is a strong network of knowledgeable horsemen on line. Certain Facebook groups are state-specific, private, and contain tens of thousands of members to inquire with. I did this in two Midwestern states, Iowa and Nebraska, with great success. It was particularly advantageous through Nebraska as I crossed the state in November when graze had begun to thin out.
Here is what I would post for reference:
“My name is Gin and I’m a young woman crossing the country on horseback from NJ to OR with my gelding, Finley. We’ll be reaching Nebraska next week which will officially put us halfway across the U.S.!
I thought I would post here to see if anyone knew of places I could stay along my route. This could be a fairground, park, stable, equestrian facility, someone’s backyard, OR even one of those strips of grass in between two corn fields. The area does not need to be fenced in as I can tether my horse, but it would need suitable graze and to be without
heavy tree coverage. Access to water nearby is a must too, especially if it’s an uninhabited field.
I am happy to pay a boarding fee and to provide my gelding’s Coggins vaccine records. We just had our last vet check in Huxley, IA, and acquired our health certificate there for Nebraska. Finley can also be stalled or corralled if I can purchase hay. As for myself, I have a small tent I can pitch anywhere.”
You never need to network in this way. There are many dangers to social media, from its addictive qualities to hostile users. Much of the beauty of a long ride lies in its detachment from the internet! However, since social media can be a powerful tool for good too, I feel obliged to share how it might ease your travels.
Similarly, I connected with a dozen hosts through Warmshowers. I only contacted members that mentioned having a large yard.The caveat – the site is meant for touring cyclists and has a $35 sign-up fee. Everyone on the platform that I interacted with was enthused by my horse.
These websites list overnight boarding facilities in the U.S.:
https://www.equineinfoexchange.com/travel-tourism/horse-motelshttps://horsebnb.com/ http://www.horseandtravel.com/https://www.trailmeister.com/
https://horsetraildirectory.com/Map/
These websites list free campsites in the U.S.: https://freecampsites.net/ https://www.campendium.com/
Previously, the Guild has shared this programme that lists hundreds of equestrian campsites across the nation.
I highly recommend a mapping app called “onX Hunt.” It shows accurate property borders and ownership details for the entire U.S. This can be used to pinpoint unmarked public lands.
“onXHunt” also lists where natural springs are! In the deserts of Oregon, surrounded by sagebrush and cheat grass, I was able to camp with my horse beside an oasis of lush, edible green grass being fed by a natural spring. “onX Hunt” led me there.
Over the course of my long ride, I maintained a logbook detailing where I spent every night as well as what my horse ate daily.
From New Jersey to Nebraska, approximately 72% of my stays were with hosts and 28% without. From Nebraska to Oregon, approximately 25% of my stays were with hosts and 75% without.
I hope my logbook can provide you with some clarity on what is, perhaps, the most daunting part of an ocean to ocean long ride: finding lodging.
When your mileage and route changes on the daily, knowing in advance where you’ll sleep every night is impossible. You cannot prepare your way out of this reality; you must entertain and embrace the daily discovery of it all. Many mornings, I did not know where I would be camping come sundown, yet I never suffered a sleepless night. Rest assured, something always works out. Often in the most mystifying, serendipitous ways. Backpackers have a saying to describe this phenomenon: “the trail provides,” and it’s true. It does, but you must still do everything in your power to set yourself up for success, too.
Weather
An ocean to ocean ride entails traveling through part of all four seasons, unless you are exceptionally fast or have made plans to avoid the winter outright.
The weather should be amicable for most of the way, but you will still experience bouts of
extreme heat, cold, rain, and wind. There is also the potential of encountering snow and ice.
With phone service being readily available across much of the U.S., it should be easy to access daily, or weekly, weather reports to stay up-to-date on the forecast.
Pick up and shed clothes as necessary.
In Nebraska in November, I was bundled to the brim with five layers of coats. For the majority of my ride, I simply carried one light jacket. Sometimes I had no jacket at all.
A good raincoat is crucial. Do not skimp on quality.
My most miserable nights on the road were ones in which I was wet and cold; a dangerous duo.
Waterproof bags are of equal necessity. I opted to put all my gear in zip lock bags. They are cheap, light as air, easily acquired in town stores, and do the job well.
The National Weather Service (NWS) maintains an incredible number of reports on weather conditions in the U.S.: https://www.spc.noaa.gov/wcm/
Similarly, the NWS has this website which shows thermal images of snowpack in the Rocky Mountains, allowing users to view past and present conditions by date. While this satellite-generated imagery may not be entirely accurate, it is still a very useful tool to glean when certain mountain passes out west will be clear of snow.
Forest fire season reaches its peak in summer and fall. Fires can completely stop all forward travel for north-south long riders on the Pacific Crest Trail or Continental Divide Trail but should not hamper the ocean to ocean rider if you remain flexible on routing. The U.S. government maintains an active map of forest fires out west.
Thunderstorm season and tornado season vary by state. See the NWS website for reports on each.
You are unlikely to ever encounter a tornado on your long ride, whereas it’s only a matter of time until a thunderstorm hits you.
Thunderstorms may make for the worst weather you face going ocean to ocean. Severe thunderstorms are always accompanied by lightning, a dangerous and potentially deadly threat! Lightning is capable of striking several miles from its origin point. American Long Rider Mike Winter, and his Apache, were struck by lightning while attempting to ride across the USA!
I encountered the most frequent and ferocious thunderstorms in the summer months of the central plain states: Kansas, Nebraska, Wyoming, and Colorado. Midwestern thunderstorms tend to blow through quickly, but violently. Extreme wind and hail are possible.
Be a weather wimp! I give you full permission. When you have the option to sit out inclement weather, whether it be triple-digit days or ferocious thunderstorms, do so.
In other words: avoid bad weather when you can, bear it when you can’t, and remember that your horse would be bravely facing whatever storm came their way even if you
weren’t present. They were born to live outside, roaming pastures. In crossing the country together, you simply get the honor of being by their side during such times.
Horse Care
Some general principles to follow on an ocean to ocean long ride include: taking 1 to 2 rest days a week,
10-minute breaks for every hour of riding,
walking a portion of your daily mileage,
and waiting to unsaddle your horse until their back has cooled.
Worm your horse a week before departure. This treatment lasts a long time but will start the horse out fresh and free from energy eating parasites.
Pick your horse’s hooves carefully every morning and night – and check them every time before mounting.
Be meticulous when saddling, ensuring everything is situated properly.
Check that your saddlebags are even in weight, down to the very ounce, every day. A scale can accomplish this.
After unsaddling, palpate your horse’s back and legs to ensure there are no signs of sensitivity, heat, inflammation, rubs, or sores.
If your horse sustains an injury to their back, such as a saddle sore, immediately make arrangements to take time off for the injury to heal while evaluating what might have caused it. Finding a place to layover nightly is challenging enough but for multiple weeks is a logistical nightmare! Out west, you may be able to devise a wilderness camp. Otherwise, look into fairgrounds, whether you can reach one on foot or need to be trailered there. Many fairgrounds across the U.S. permit camping for people and horses, including extended stays.
All 50 states in the U.S. require proof of a negative Coggins (EIV) test within 12 months of entry. If your ride is completed within a year, you should only need to obtain a Coggins once at the start.
While regulations vary, most states require a Certificate of Veterinary Inspection(CVI), otherwise called a health certificate, valid within 30 days of entry.
Thankfully, many states have a reciprocal agreement in place that allows for a health certificate to be used across multiple state lines, valid for six months rather than one. You must explicitly sign up for this program called the Extended Equine Certificate of Veterinary Inspection (EECVI).
Both a Coggins and health certificate must be issued by a licensed veterinarian.
To be blunt: while a Coggins is vital to have, for your own sake as much as anyone else’s, health certificates are little more than a formality.
Over the course of my ocean to ocean ride, I had vets issue me a health certificate after simply glancing over my horse without ever examining his mouth, heart, or lungs.
No one ever asked to see my health certificates. I only had one fairgrounds manager in Illinois require proof of my Coggins. Many other people asked if I had a current Coggins but were content with verbal confirmation. Some never asked at all.
Certain western states require brand inspections. What this essentially entails is a county-appointed inspector coming out to check your paperwork, ensuring your horse rightfully belongs to you. Inspectors are known to stop horse trailers on interstates at state lines for this purpose. On back roads, you will most likely have to request a visit. Signage is typically posted outside of state lines to make people aware of this law with a number posted to call.
Core vaccinations for horses in the U.S. include: Eastern & Western Equine Encephalomyelitis, Rabies, Tetanus, and West Nile Virus. There is a 5-way vaccine that allows for all of these to be administered in one shot which is highly recommended.
Other vaccines–such as influenza, strangles, and rhinopneumonitis–are risk-based. On the Equine Disease Communication Center website, you can sign up for alerts about present outbreaks and learn where quarantines are in place across the nation!
It can be a good idea to de-worm your horse routinely as well.
Ultimately the paper work you maintain in your saddlebags should include: proof of ownership, Coggins, vaccination record, health certificate, and brand inspection (if applicable).
There is an abundance of knowledgeable veterinarians, farriers, saddle fitters, and trainers in the country capable of being reached in person, online, or over the phone. In this way, the U.S. is truly the land of opportunity!
Though not everyone who claims to be an equine professional is truly–
Some veterinarians advertise equine services when, in reality, they lack the expertise to do little more than administer vaccines. As a general rule of thumb, avoid mixed practice vets, unless you need simple services rendered like vaccines/Coggins/health certificates. Seek out equine-specific practices, especially those involved in sports medicine.
Anyone can claim to be a farrier and a bad, brazen one can cripple your horse. An amateur saddle fitter or trainer can cause similar harm.
To the extent that it’s possible, vet sources online and in person. Get references.
Whether your horse should be shod, booted, or barefoot depends first and foremost on their individual needs followed only then by your personal preference. Both options are possible for the ocean to ocean rider.
My mustang had rock-solid hooves, so he alternated between being barefoot and wearing hoof boots. His boots were primarily for gravel as he did exceptionally well on pavement barefoot. He was never once lame. Yet for countless other horses, attempting to go barefoot would be inappropriate and shoes are a necessary kindness. I would readily shoe another mount of mine if they benefited from it. Some riders prefer shoes even if their horse could go without and that is perfectly all right as well.
If you are considering horse shoes, check out this article on the advantages of having shoes lined with borium. It includes testimony from multiple American Long Riders!
If you are considering hoof boots, check out this article by Bernie and Julia Harberts comparing the three most common brands. It is incredibly comprehensive!
Medical kits vary.
My horse kit contained: bute, Banamine, vet wrap, triple antibiotic, Vetricyn, and liniment. In the summer months, SWAT fly cream and a lycra fly mask were added and, at various other points, I carried topical ointments for rain rot.
My personal kit contained: more triple antibiotic, Ibuprofen, Band-Aids, an ace bandage, gauze, a tourniquet, wound dressing, a chest seal, and burn gel.
I never felt that I was missing anything essential and would embark on another ocean to ocean long ride with all the same things.
Food
The best long riding horse is an easy keeper who can stay fit on forage alone. The harder it is for your horse to maintain weight, the greater burden you will endure.
Regardless, the U.S. has such vast resources that it is easy, and encouraged, to supplement your horse’s diet with hay and grain throughout your travels.
A support vehicle is not necessary to ride ocean to ocean. The only exception is in extreme circumstances, such as the rare, barren stretch of land out west, or during winter travel, and even then it need only be used as a temporary relief.
Depending on your horse and the time of year, feed may never need to be maintained in your saddlebags. If you do pack feed, such as grain or pelleted/cubed hay, it is a good idea to maximize calories per pound carried.
I kept a serving or two of grain in my horn bags sporadically, mostly when offered to-go by hosts, as I decided it wasn’t worth the weight to carry long term nor necessary to keep my horse fit.
Edible forage, whether cultivated or wild, is abundant in much of the U.S., primarily between April and November.
If traveling in the winter, December through March, you will need to supplement your horse’s diet with more hay or grain to compensate for a lack of graze.
Lists of toxic plants in the U.S. can readily be found on line to familiarize yourself with, though horses tend to naturally avoid them without intervention.
Farm stores selling feed are commonplace in towns. Listings for hay can be found online.
Hosts are generally willing and happy to provide hay and/or grain on overnight stays when they have it available. This is where you are likely to receive the majority of your supplemental feed. It is customary to offer payment, though common for hosts to decline.
In all honesty, I can’t recall a single host willing to accept compensation on my ride, aside from the few nights I spent at boarding barns with established nightly rates. I almost exclusively paid for hay when staying at fairgrounds, where I might inquire with a hay dealer from Facebook Marketplace about having a bale or two delivered.
On the road, I often shared my meals with my horse, provided the contents were suitable. This proved convenient anytime I was offered snacks I didn’t like by people whom I didn’t want to offend by declining. My gelding devoured a great many dried fruits, nuts, and granola bars for me. I also plied him with treats any chance I got at passing grocery stores and gas stations. Finley’s favorite treat is pizza crusts. Towards the end of my ride, I learned that beer is good for horses–especially stout beers like Guinness– so a celebratory drink was bestowed upon him on our last day at the beach.
The recommended principle of traveling no more than 20-30 miles a day, taking 1-2 rest days a week, and allowing for 10-minute graze breaks every hour of travel aims to ensure that your mount is not only well-rested but remains well-fed.
Loose salt is prudent to carry, as it supports healthy nerve and muscle function and promotes water intake. Most forage does not contain enough sodium to meet a horse’s daily needs.
Other electrolyte supplements can be readily acquired if desired, online and in person. Oils can pack in calories and are high in fat.
On the first half of my ride, I did not bother with any supplements. On the second half, I carried a small bag of loose salt and a tube of electrolyte paste, with the latter only being administered occasionally. Truthfully, I noticed no difference in my horse’s performance with these additions, but since they could only serve to benefit him and were practical to carry, I continued to.
Make sure you are well-versed in what laminitis and colic are, as they are two of the most common, life-threatening illnesses a horse can face. Both can strike within a moment’s notice and be related to diet.
With its high sugar content, the over consumption of fresh spring forage in particular can cause a debilitating form of laminitis called “grass founder” in susceptible horses.
Before departure, it can be a good idea to alter your horse’s feeding schedule to condition them to life on the road where meal times will be randomized. A horse on a fixed schedule is more likely to colic with a sudden change.
The right horse for long riding can thrive on a randomized feeding schedule with an ever-changing diet while kept in active work. Regularly walking 10-20 miles a day makes for a robust, healthy digestive system, one much less susceptible to problems compared to that of a sedentary horse.
If done right, your horse should remain in peak condition from start to finish.
For full transparency, out of 231 over-night stays over approximately 335 days on my ocean to ocean ride, there were 9 days where my horse had no access to feed overnight. To address this, I would allow him to graze in-hand for 2-3 hours prior to setting up camp, to the extent it was possible, then repeat the same in the morning. I would then cover less mileage the following day, stopping to graze along the way more frequently and riding less.
A detailed account of what my horse ate every day on my ride can be viewed in my logbook. My gelding remained in impeccable weight throughout, a testament to just how viable an ocean to ocean long ride is without a support vehicle, as well as the importance of choosing the right horse. Mustangs are known for being easy keepers,not only surviving but often thriving in the sparsely vegetated deserts of the western U.S.
Feeding Yourself
In finishing this section, it suddenly crossed my mind that you might like to know how to feed yourself too! Ha.
Thankfully, towns can sufficiently supply you with food. Grocery stores, dollar stores, and gas stations all stock non-perishables. Many establishments serve hot meals. All sorts of pre-packaged, freeze-dried meals are on the market today. Care packages can be sent to post offices along your route with food. And with a portable camping stove, you can warm up anything. You will have to pack greater quantities in the West where towns are spaced further apart. A long ride is one of the only times in your life when you want compact, high calorie foods and can eat them guilt free, so live it up! Peanut butter was a staple in my saddle bags. Though, admittedly, for over half my ride I didn’t bother to carry food at all, because towns were so close together on the East Coast.
A common question in regards to resupplying is, “Where on Earth do you park your horse?” and the answer is simply, anywhere you can! There is usually some sort of fixed metal pole or tree outside of stores. Sometimes you’ll have to get creative. A location that is isolated from traffic and has low foot traffic to discourage strangers from
approaching your horse while they are unintended is ideal. It is wise to use a quick release knot when tying off your horse.
Water
Horses require 5 to 15 gallons of water in a day, even greater quantities in hot weather.It is critical to obtain yet impossible to carry. At the start of my own long ride, I recall being filled with anxiety on how I would manage to find enough every single day!
So allow me to ease your worries now: like with feed, you should have little problem acquiring water for most of your ride.
Remember: where there are people, there is water!
The East is overflowing with access – really, it is blissfully simple to obtain there. While the West, with its desert geography and limited populations, is more susceptible to droughts.
Natural sources such as rivers, creeks, ponds, etc., are abundant with only a few areas lacking.
Your mount should be able to drink straight from the source nearly everywhere. The same is never true for people, except for spring runoffs, and even then there is a risk of contamination as you never know what lies upstream. Filter ALL water from natural sources meant for human consumption.
Freezing temperatures destroy water filters, so if the temperature drops below 32°F/0°C,keep your water filter in your sleeping bag.
Of course, use your judgment with any still water having an off-appearance or smell. I must admit I trusted my mount to drink when and where he pleased, and he enthusiastically drank from a few sources that appeared unpalatable to my human eyes and sensibilities with no ill effect. Horses have far stronger constitutions than people.
Certain waterways can be polluted beyond what is safe to drink and toxic algae blooms exist in the U.S., so be mindful of both possibilities, however rare they are. Blue-green algae, or cyanobacteria, do appear to be on the rise.
Well water, such as from a faucet or spigot, is normally potable.
If water has a rotten egg smell, it may still be perfectly safe to drink, as the smell is simply due to a harmlessly high sulfur content. This is the case for certain wells in the U.S.
Flavor packets can be purchased in many markets to make your water taste better and provide electrolytes.
In farm country, old-style windmills can signify water as they feed troughs from underground wells for livestock.
In a pinch, you can buy gallons of water in a town store or knock on a stranger’s door to ask for water. Locals are generally happy to oblige.
American Long Rider Howard Woodridge discovered that cemeteries always have running water, via a spigot, so the grounds keeper can water the grass and flowers.
You may encounter good Samaritans who will approach you in their vehicles upon passing to offer food and water, more so for you than your mount.
Rural churches are common across the U.S. and often have working spigots.Town parks can have spigots or “water fountains” to drink from.
You can carry a few bottles in your saddle bags, replenishing them in towns or at natural sources with a purifier as desired.
Maps can be essential in finding water sources, but maps can lie too.
Frustratingly, it is very common for the banks of waterways to be too steep for a horse to access! Other times you may need to access water from a spigot or keep a supply of water accessible to your horse overnight.
For these occasions, it is recommended to have a transport bag. Canvas bags are the traditional choice. Plastic, collapsible bags are suitable too.
Being so weight-conscious, I did not want to bother with having a separate bag for water and instead repurposed my horn bags whenever I needed to gather and transport water temporarily.
Like with feed, it can be advantageous to get your horse accustomed to having select access to water prior to departure. 2-3 times a day is sufficient. That way, when on the road, your horse recognizes the importance of drinking well when water is made available without under or over-drinking.
While camping, I would routinely water my horse immediately before and after tethering him, with him otherwise going without 24-7 access overnight.
If you anticipate any water shortages along your route, look into the possibility of having water “cached”. This is where a third party will leave jugs of water in designated locations ahead. A major problem with “caching” water is that it is illegal to then discard the empty jugs on the ground yet difficult to pack them in your saddle bags, so you would need to arrange transport to pick them up afterward too.Drought areas may call for the use of a support vehicle.
I had to call in local support for water once on my entire ocean to ocean ride in the deserts of Idaho. This was due to a miscalculation on my part and could have been avoided. I might have needed to on one other occasion in eastern Wyoming if it hadn’t been thunderstorm season so daily rains provided ample fresh water puddles.
Learn From The Locals
Americans are some of the most friendly, generous people, quick to offer a warm welcome and a helping hand. If you are honest and of good intentions, faithful and ever lasting to your mount, you should be well received by the vast majority. Especially when you are traveling with a horse, a creature so uniquely adept at opening doors to new worlds.
An ocean to ocean ride provides such an extraordinary, visceral way to see into the heart of America, and, in turn, you will be met with kindness that will remain in your heart for the rest of your life. Lifelong friendships will be forged. Serendipity will define your days. I often look back on my own ride and think, “What a wonder it was,” because of the people I met.
Locals will approach you while you are out riding to inquire about what you are doing. Adults and children alike will be delighted to pet your horse. In the U.S., apples and carrots are considered the most traditional treats for horses, so expect these to be enthusiastically offered, among other foods. Not every member of the public understands how to interact appropriately with horses, so be ready to give gentle but firm instructions. Occasionally someone may try to approach your horse to pet them when they are left unattended outside stores, so be aware of this possibility.
When interacting with the public, it is beneficial to inform them of the measures you are taking to ensure your horse’s well-being, even if they don’t ask. Be proactive and forthright in easing people’s minds, quelling any quiet concerns or assumptions. Mention your weekly rest days, routine vet checks, etc.
Horses are predominately kept as companion animals rather than for utilitarian purposes in the U.S. Even when horses are used for work–from tending to cattle, to plowing fields, to pulling carriages, to participation in various disciplines: dressage, eventing, barrel racing, rodeo, the list goes on and on–they are seldom seen as mere “tools” as they once were decades ago. Horses are valued similar to, though not quite on the level of, cats and dogs. Welfare standards are high. Horse meat is illegal to sell in the U.S., and if you ask most Americans, they will express how disgusted they are at the thought of consuming it. Horses can serve as a status symbol for the wealthy. By extension, anyone with one is automatically assumed to have a certain level of wealth, whether that is true or not.
The U.S. has a rich, diverse community of horsemen to get advice from. “English” and “Western” are the two most common riding styles with whole cultures existing around them. Western is the most prevalent in rural areas where you will be the majority of the time on an ocean to ocean ride. Locals can be a good source of advice on conditions in their area. Of course, remain judicious in who you trust, as not everyone who claims expertise is truly knowledgeable, especially as it pertains to the needs of a Long Rider.
The Back Country Horsemen of America is a national trail advocacy group with branches across the U.S. They may be a good contact.
Christianity is the dominant religion in the U.S. In rural areas, people are overwhelmingly “conservative” or “Republican” on the U.S.political spectrum. Regardless of your own beliefs, aim to be respectful of differing opinions, avoiding arguments at all costs, especially as a guest over dinner where contentious subjects are the most likely to arise.
Carrying a “friendship book” can be advantageous. This is a notebook for people to sign their name, date, and a comment. Not only does a friendship book make for cherished memories, but it also adds credibility to your ride with potential hosts. When hosts thumb through the pages, seeing all the names of people you’ve previously stayed with, it helps reassure them of your trustworthiness. A similar impact can be had on law enforcement. And, really, a friendship book just brings people great joy, knowing they have played a part in your journey and that their name will be carried with you across the country!
Business cards can serve a similar purpose in increasing your sense of legitimacy. This is especially true if your business card directs interested parties to an online platform where they can follow your journey, forging an ongoing connection with you virtually.
Law enforcement will likely stop you at some point during your ride. While walking across the U.S., I had strangers quietly call the police on me over thirty times for looking suspicious. Granted, this was because I carried all my gear in a stroller, so the rhetoric tended to be – “What is this crazy lady doing pushing a baby down the highway in her stroller?”
Regardless of why the 911 call came in, responding officers were all too eager to run my ID to ensure I had no active warrants against me. On horseback, with a mount in ideal shape, the tone was considerably different. My status seemed elevated automatically. No one reported me to the police while riding, though there were three instances in which law enforcement stopped me to simply ask if I was okay. While your experience may differ, aim to always be cordial with law enforcement.
Motorists
Traffic will always be nicer on back roads than highways, wherever the speed limit is lower and the pace more relaxed.
Most drivers on back roads in the U.S. are kind and courteous, slowing down to give horseback riders a wide berth. Those who aren’t so kind tend to sully our perception of all
motorists but that needn’t be the case. I have walked, bicycled, and ridden on horseback across the United States and, by far, I have received the greatest respect from motorists while on horseback.
Horses are rarely on the road, so the presence of one is a novelty, generally admired upon passing.
Always ride with traffic in the U.S., unless there is far greater shoulder space on the opposing side of the road.
You should travel in the same direction as traffic even when leading your mount, despite the fact that pedestrians traditionally oppose traffic.
Be mindful of “rush hour,” the period between 7-9 a.m. and 4-6 p.m. on weekdays when most people are heading to or from work, causing congested roads and impatient drivers. This phenomenon is not as prolific on back roads, so you may not notice any change in the countryside.
It is wise to ensure your horse is conditioned to a car horn before departure. You may experience the rare, clueless motorist who will honk in greeting! In fact, these friendly honkers may very well be more common than aggressive honkers. On the third day of
my long ride, I had a minivan blare its horn at me. I assumed ill-intent until I looked into the vehicle’s windows to see that it was a large Hispanic family, all smiling and waving boisterously at me. On a few other occasions, I have been greeted with a“hello” in this way.
Safety
Traffic is the greatest everyday threat to the ocean to ocean long rider.
The best defense against motor vehicles is to have a road safe mount and a carefully considered route. Helmets, safety vests, and high visibility/reflective clothes can be worn for protection and are readily available in the U.S.
A taillight can be strapped to the rear of your saddle or packs for low visibility areas. Avoid night riding whenever possible, even with a headlight.
Ground holes, drainage ditches, and debris, including broken glass, can be found along roadways so keep an eye out for these dangers.
Many roads have “rumble strips,” or rows of indents in the pavement at the edge of lanes to alert drivers if they have veered out of their lane. These rumble strips may similarly alert you to any changes in the position of traffic approaching from behind without turning around to look.
Cattle guards are metal beams laid over a ditch to prevent livestock from crossing. They primarily exist in the southeastern and western U.S. Horses cannot cross cattle guards without risk of death and, thankfully, tend to have a natural aversion to them like cattle. The vast majority of cattle guards have gates beside them to enter/exit safely. Make sure to close the gates behind you. Going east-west, I did not encounter my first cattle guard until western Nebraska. From there I ran into approximately 20-30 more on route to Oregon.
The Amish are an ethno-religious group that live in isolated pockets of the U.S. with the largest populations in Pennsylvania and Ohio. They abstain from nearly all modern technology, using no electricity and traveling via horse and buggy. I mention the Amish in this section because their buggies, often pulled by bay Standardbreds at a thunderous trot, can be frightening to a horse who has never encountered one before! So if your horse has no experience with buggies, remain vigilant if one ever approaches. Dismounting is safest.
Long Rider Meredith Cherry, who has ridden 10,000 miles across the U.S. on her gelding, Apollo, has previously shared a wealth of safety suggestions in this article for the Guild.
A personal locator beacon (PLB) is great to carry. These devices have an SOS button that, when pressed, alerts emergency personnel to your location via satellites for immediate rescue, even in the most remote wildernesses. Most PLB’s have tracking features and certain models have two-way communications.
A tracker can be equipped to your horses in case they are lost. My horse went missing in Wind Cave National Park, South Dakota, and was presumed dead only to resurface from the woods a week later. Thereafter I braided a tracker into his mane. This tool proved priceless in finding him within a few hours when he went missing again in Deschutes National Forest, Oregon.
An ID tag with your contact information can be strapped to your mount’s halter or braided into their mane in case they are lost and located by a third party. ManeStay is one provider of such a product. I devised my own at home.
I highly recommend carrying emergency supplies on your body rather than in your packs. This may include: your phone, GPS locator, water filter, and/or medical supplies. A fall from your horse is one of the surest ways to incur a potentially catastrophic injury, and if your horse bolts, you don’t want to be left stranded with nothing on hand.
While it’s true that women face a greater threat from predatory men on the road, women are also more likely to be trusted and taken in by hosts. So don’t let your sex deter you from embarking on an ocean to ocean ride. Countless solo men and women have made the journey successfully.
It is smart to keep a third party notified of your location daily and to delay posting updates on your journey online so that the public cannot track your whereabouts in real time.
While there are still many “dead zones” in the U.S. where you will have no phone service, especially in the Southeast and the West, advancements are being made yearly to close these gaps. Verizon seems to be the most reliable provider in rural America as of 2024. Though I used T-Mobile/Sprint and got along well.
Grizzly bears are isolated to the northern Rocky Mountains of Idaho, Montana, and Wyoming, and the northern Cascade Mountains of Washington. Bear spray is advantageous to have in grizzly country. Select wilderness areas require, or otherwise recommend, the use of bear bags or canisters to store your food, trash, toiletries, and other odorous items. Ocean to ocean riders should seldom find themselves in these areas.
A cowbell can be strapped to your mount(s) to alert wildlife of your approach when trail riding. Grizzlies commonly attack due to being startled. A bell can also reassure you that your mount(s) have remained nearby at night when you are in your tent, out of sight. This is perhaps a bell’s greatest function.
The U.S. is home to various venomous snake species. All are pit vipers–rattlesnakes, cottonmouths, and copperheads–with distinct triangular heads and slit pupils, except for the coral snake which only inhabits scattered regions in the southeastern U.S. Thus, most venomous snake species are easily distinguished from harmless ones. Rattlesnakes are the species most likely to be encountered while crossing the country, typically west of the Mississippi River.
Pepper spray is a useful deterrent against aggressive stray dogs. Such dogs seem especially prolific in rural Appalachia and Native American reservations.
Laws on firearms are ever-changing and the decision to carry is a very personal one. Many states have reciprocity agreements that allow for the concealed carry of a handgun by licensed U.S. citizens regardless of which state their permit was originally issued in. On my ride, such a permit would have made carrying legal in every state I passed through except New Jersey, Illinois, and Oregon. Open carry laws are even more lenient.
The Bureau of Land Management maintains a map of wild horse territories out west. It is wise to familiarize yourself with these areas, as wild horses have been known to cause trouble for traveling parties. This is particularly true if you have mares for which a wild stallion might like to steal from your company.
A plastic bag on a stick can discourage hostile encounters with wild mustangs. This simple but ingenious deterrent was devised by Long Rider, Samantha Szesciorka, who has made three long rides across Nevada. Nevada is home to 60% of all wild horses.
After glossing over some of the major dangers in the U.S., I want to take a moment to reiterate that fear stops more long rides than anything else.
The fear of the unknown is pervasive, paralyzing. Few who dream of long riding will ever dare to step outside their front door because they are so overwhelmed by their fear. Fear is a greater obstacle than any would-be grizzly or rattlesnake. (Really, the likelihood that you’ll have a life-threatening encounter with either animal is so slim!) I
don’t mean to discount the purpose fear serves in keeping you safe. Do exercise caution. Do prepare properly, as there is no better prevention method. Just try not to let your fear blow dangers out of proportion, as it will try to.
Ironically, you might find yourself worrying more about an ocean to ocean ride before starting out, while still in the comforts of your own home, than you ever will when you’re actively on the road, long riding. Fear actually has a funny way of subsiding once you get out there and realize the world is not as scary as you allowed yourself to believe.
Finding Yourself
Since the first section in this article is entitled Finding Your Horse, it feels appropriate to end it with Finding Yourself, as having the right mindset for a long ride is what makes one possible.
Success is not measured in records, ribbons, fame or fortune, nor even in mileage, but in the health and well-being of your horse. Their happiness is yours. To that end, the most important trait you can possess is the heart to put your horse first.
Do not embark on an ocean to ocean ride if your aim is to stroke your ego. A desire for publicity should never be the driving force behind your ride.
It is becoming alarmingly trendy for people in the U.S. to embark on thinly-veiled publicity stunts under the guise of a long ride. The internet has made it easier than ever for attention seekers to try to exploit their horses for fame in this way. Often these types of people will have a designated PR team, or employ a needless support vehicle, or put a spin on their story, a declaration that they will be the fastest or the first to ride a certain distance across the country. Worst are the ones so self-absorbed that they do not prepare properly nor take necessary precautions en route, all at the expense of their horse.
Alternately – do not be fooled into thinking that you must be a master equestrian with years of experience to get into long riding, that it is unattainable if you weren’t lucky enough to be born into a family of horsemen.
I know how easy it is to fall into this belief. While I am from the U.S., a country that has granted me extraordinary privileges, by American standards, I grew up poor. Both my parents struggled with homelessness during my childhood. I was mostly raised by my single mother who supported my siblings and I on her meager waitressing salaries, supplemented with government welfare. We bounced from apartment to apartment.
Riding horses? That felt like such a fantasy, a hobby for the rich. Even into adulthood, I struggled to understand how to get into horseback riding, let alone long riding. It felt out of reach…until I accepted that my present circumstances didn’t matter. So I had never ridden a horse before? I could learn. So I didn’t have the funds? I could work to raise them. If I were truly committed to an ocean to ocean ride, I could make it the path of least resistance in my life. So I did.
You can too!
If you dedicate yourself to preparing, all while having the honor and integrity to uphold the sanctity of your horse’s well-being every step of the way, it doesn’t matter what your starting point is. All that matters is what you are willing to learn.
I encourage you to read The Horse Travel Handbook by CuChullaine O’Reilly. This is the most comprehensive guide to long riding. Whether you’re in the final stages of planning or you’ve only just begun daydreaming about an ocean to ocean ride, The Horse Travel Handbook is a must read.
Finding a long riding mentor holds equal value.
Contact the Guild itself, or look into individual ocean to ocean long riders online to connect with. And if you struggle to get in touch with someone directly, there is a wealth of articles, blogs, and books by long riders to explore. The wisdom in their stories is unparalleled.
My own mentor Sea G. Rhydr is the reason I am here writing this today. After riding across the U.S. herself from California to Maine in 2011, she opened the door for me to do the same a decade later. Her willingness to take a chance on me is what kick-started my ocean to ocean ride, transforming me from a dreamer to a doer. This is all because of her, really. Love you, Sea.
To wrap things up, here is a list of some notable ocean to ocean Long Riders, though I encourage you to discover more yourself:
- Willard Glazier, was the first recorded person to ride ocean to ocean in 1875.
- “Two Gun” Nan Aspinwall, was the first woman to ride ocean to ocean in 1911.
- Bud and Temple Abernathy, rode from New York to San Francisco, aged 11 and 7, in 1911.
- George Beck, rode ocean to ocean during a journey that took him more than 20,000 miles to 48 state capitol starting in 1912.
- Messanie Wilkins, rode ocean to ocean starting in 1954 at the age of 63 with money she had saved from selling homemade pickles.
- DC Vision, a Founding Member of the Guild who rode 14,000 miles on a spiritual odyssey around the U.S. starting in 1991. He had never ridden a horse prior to setting off.
- Howard Wooldridge, rode from Georgia to Oregon in 2002 and rode from California to New York in 2008.
- Bernice Ende, culminated over 30,000 miles in the saddle over two decades criss-crossing the U.S. and Canada as a single woman in her retirement years
Ultimately, an ocean to ocean ride is all about embarking on an honest, epic adventure with your horse while forging a bond with them unlike any other: a true partnership. At home, no matter how much time you dedicate to spending with your horse, so long as you reside indoors and they remain outside, there is a way in which your lives are inherently divided.
While on the road, your relationship is transcended—instantly. You are now side by side for every sunrise and sunset, through good and bad, eating, drinking, and sleeping beside one another. You become each other’s greatest source of comfort and camaraderie, each other’s herd, and each other’s home. All the while, you get to experience the enduring kindness of the American people and the unspeakable beauty of the U.S.
Together.
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Special thanks to CuChullaine O’Reilly, the co-founder of the Long Riders Guild, for proofreading this article and for championing equestrian adventure around the globe.
“The Long Riders’ Guild is the world’s first international association of equestrian explorers, and is an invitation-only organisation. It was formed in 1994 to represent men and women of all nations who have ridden more than 1,000 continuous miles on a single equestrian journey.
It marks the first time in modern equestrian history that like-minded men and women are combining efforts to preserve a hitherto unmarked heritage and provide an international forum to discuss our mutual love of horses and travel.“
Like I said before, I want to be like Gin when I grow up. 🙂 Would you consider mentoring someone if they decided a couple years from now that they wanted to ride across the country? The Trans America Trail looks like it would be a good option.
Awww, thank you, Mike!! 😀 Wonderful to hear from you! And absolutely, I’d love to mentor anyone interested in long riding. It would be my honor given all the help I have received from others!